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Pain Perdu du Matin
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The Morning Wake-Up (what you dip in coffee as you jump out of bed)

Pain Perdu du Matin

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The Morning Wake-Up (what you dip in coffee as you jump out of bed)

Pain Perdu du Matin

Why this dish? Desnos lived as a modest Parisian, where nothing was wasted. Yesterday's bread, hardened, never ended up in the trash: soaked in milk and egg, it became a treat. A poet's dish, precisely—it turns scraps into wonders, just as he turned worn-out words into new games.

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The Morning Wake-Up (what you dip in coffee as you jump out of bed)

Slices of stale bread revived in a bath of sweetened milk and beaten egg, browned in butter in the pan until the outside is crispy and the inside melting. The little luxury of poor Sundays.

Comrade, never throw away your stale bread—it's a crime against poetry! At home we called it pain perdu, but lost for whom? Found, yes, resurrected in milk and egg like a rhyme we thought was dead. My mother would brown it in butter while singing, and the smell rose up the stairs better than any advertisement. You bite into it hot, the sugar crackles, the inside melts—and you're rich for pennies.
Robert Desnos
Ingredients
  • Stale bread (baguette or country loaf)a few thick slices (base, recovery of yesterday's bread)
  • Whole milkone bowl (soften the crumb)
  • Eggstwo or three (golden binder)
  • Sugara generous pinch (sweetness)
  • Buttera knob (cooking, browning)
How it was made : A poverty dish of domestic economy attested since the Middle Ages under a thousand names, pain perdu was in early 20th-century working-class Paris the breakfast or snack of modest families: bread, a sacred commodity, was never thrown away. During the Occupation, when bread was rationed from 1940, every last crust became precious.
Sources : Auguste Escoffier, Le Guide culinaire, 1903 · Cuisine populaire parisienne, tradition orale

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