flipQuince ratafia
Quince ratafia
Why this dish? Homemade liqueurs, prepared in autumn and kept in bottles, were served in small glasses at the end of the meal or to honor a visitor. A cultivated hostess like Adélaïde always had some to offer: a simple and refined gesture of hospitality between two sittings.
A golden, fragrant liqueur made by macerating grated quince juice in eau-de-vie with sugar and mild spices. Prepared in quince season and left to age a few weeks.
In late autumn, when quinces perfume the whole kitchen, I never fail to put a few bottles in reserve. One grates the fruit, collects its juice, marries it with eau-de-vie and sugar, with a stick of cinnamon and a clove—no more, art lies in measure. This liqueur improves by sleeping a few weeks in the cellar. A small glass offered to whoever comes to pose or converse, and the sitting is always the more pleasant for it.
- •Ripe quinces — four or five (aromatic fruit)
- •Eau-de-vie — one pint (maceration alcohol)
- •Sugar — in proportion (sweetness)
- •Cinnamon — one stick (spice)
- •Clove — one (spice)
- •Coriander seeds — a pinch (flavor)
Quince ratafia
A golden, fragrant liqueur made by macerating grated quince juice in eau-de-vie with sugar and mild spices. Prepared in quince season and left to age a few weeks.
Why this dish? Homemade liqueurs, prepared in autumn and kept in bottles, were served in small glasses at the end of the meal or to honor a visitor. A cultivated hostess like Adélaïde always had some to offer: a simple and refined gesture of hospitality between two sittings.
In late autumn, when quinces perfume the whole kitchen, I never fail to put a few bottles in reserve. One grates the fruit, collects its juice, marries it with eau-de-vie and sugar, with a stick of cinnamon and a clove—no more, art lies in measure. This liqueur improves by sleeping a few weeks in the cellar. A small glass offered to whoever comes to pose or converse, and the sitting is always the more pleasant for it.
Ingredients (period version)
- Ripe quinces — four or five (aromatic fruit)
- Eau-de-vie — one pint (maceration alcohol)
- Sugar — in proportion (sweetness)
- Cinnamon — one stick (spice)
- Clove — one (spice)
- Coriander seeds — a pinch (flavor)
Ingredients
- Ripe fragrant quinces — 4 (about 1 kg) (aromatic fruit)
- Eau-de-vie or fruit alcohol (40-45% ABV) — 750 ml (maceration alcohol)
- Sugar — 250 g (sweetness)
- Cinnamon stick — 1 (spice)
- Clove — 1 (spice)
- Coriander seeds — 1 pinch (flavor)
Method
- Wipe the quinces with a cloth to remove their fuzz, then grate them coarsely with the skin (without the core).
- Press the grated pulp in a cloth to extract the juice.
- Mix the quince juice, eau-de-vie, sugar, and spices in a large jar.
- Close and let macerate for six to eight weeks away from light, shaking occasionally.
- Strain carefully through a fine cloth and bottle.
- Serve chilled in very small glasses after the meal.
How it was made : Ratafias—domestic liqueurs made from fruit macerated in sweetened eau-de-vie—were a household skill widespread in the 18th century, recorded in collections of 'secrets' and liqueur-making. Quince, blackcurrant, cherry ('guignolet'), or angelica served as bases. Quince, astringent when raw, becomes sweet once sugared and rested.
The contemporary twist : Serve over ice in small antique liqueur glasses, with a poached quince sliver on the rim.
Sources : Recueils d'office et de liqueurs de ménage, France XVIIIe siècle · Menon, La Cuisinière bourgeoise (1746)
Adélaïde Labille-Guiard · Charactorium
