Albert Calmette’s menu
Goyère au Maroilles (Strong Cheese Tart)
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The Pungent Cheese of Feast Day (the tart of Northern ducasses)

Goyère au Maroilles (Strong Cheese Tart)

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The Pungent Cheese of Feast Day (the tart of Northern ducasses)

Goyère au Maroilles (Strong Cheese Tart)

Why this dish? A specialist in microorganisms, Calmette lived in the land of Maroilles — that red cheese aged by surface ferments, scientific cousins of the microbes he cultivated. The goyère, a hot Maroilles tart, reigned on the tables of ducasses and kermesses in the Lille region.

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The Pungent Cheese of Feast Day (the tart of Northern ducasses)

Hot tart filled with melted Maroilles bound with cream and egg, on a leavened pastry. The most pungent cheese of the North, tamed by heat into a powerful and comforting cream.

Do not let its aroma frighten you, I pray: what your nose takes for roughness is only the honest work of surface ferments, cousins of those I grow in Petri dishes. In our region, on ducasse Sunday, we could not conceive of the celebration without this goyère fresh from the oven, the Maroilles all runny on its leavened crust. Cut it hot, accompany it with a glass of amber beer, and you will see: the fragrant beast becomes a velvet.
Albert Calmette
Ingredients
  • Aged Maroillesa good piece (characterful cheese)
  • Leavened sourdough pastrya base (crust)
  • Creama ladleful (creamy binder)
  • Eggstwo or three (binder)
  • Buttera knob (richness)
How it was made : The goyère (sometimes 'flamiche au Maroilles') was the village festival tart of Hainaut and Avesnois, the land of Maroilles aged since the Middle Ages in abbeys. It was baked in the communal bread oven on ducasse day.

See also