Aleksandra Exter’s menu
Pervoye — the first hot dish, the foundational soup

Ukrainian Borscht with Beets

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A peasant soup of intense red, with beets and cabbage, tangy and comforting, crowned with a spoonful of smetana and fresh dill.

Pervoye — the first hot dish, the foundational soup

A peasant soup of intense red, with beets and cabbage, tangy and comforting, crowned with a spoonful of smetana and fresh dill.

You see, that red — I sought it all my life on my canvases and on the stages of the Kamerny Theatre — and it was already in my grandmother's pot in Kyiv. We let the beets simmer for hours, until the broth took on that carmine hue that no pigment can match. A splash of sour juice to awaken the color, a spoonful of smetana that opens on the surface like a blot of white gouache, and dill on top. Eat it boiling hot, with black bread: it is the warmth of an entire people.
Aleksandra Exter
Ingredients
  • Beetsa few (color and earthy sweetness)
  • Cabbagea quarter head (body of the soup)
  • Potatoesa handful (consistency)
  • Onion and carrotto taste (aromatic base)
  • Tomatoes or beet kvassaccording to season (acidity)
  • Smetana (sour cream)a good spoonful per bowl (final roundness)
  • Dilla bunch (fresh fragrance)
How it was made : In the Ukrainian countryside, borscht was made in a large cauldron for several days, and its acidity often came from fermented beet kvass rather than tomatoes. Each family kept its own recipe.