flipCarpe à la juive
Carpe à la juive
Why this dish? An emblematic dish of Israelite families in Alsace, the native region of Dreyfus (Mulhouse). Cold fish in sauce, prepared on Friday before the start of Shabbat, opened the festive meal: a dish that young Alfred most likely knew on the family table.
Sections of carp poached in a broth flavored with onion and parsley, then left to cool: the sauce sets into a light, shimmering jelly. Served cold, brightened with a dash of vinegar, often with some horseradish on the side.
Allow me to present you this dish that my mother had prepared on Friday, before the candles were lit. The carp was poached gently in its onion broth, then left to rest in the cool until the sauce set into a jelly. We ate it cold, as is proper, for the holy day does not permit relighting the stoves. Try a little horseradish with it, I beg you: it is our custom, in Alsace.
- •River carp — a fine piece, cut into sections (festive fish, affordable and meaty)
- •Onions — several (aromatic base of the sauce)
- •Parsley — a bunch (flavor and color)
- •Vinegar — a dash (acidic touch)
- •Goose fat — a spoonful (kosher fat)
Carpe à la juive
Sections of carp poached in a broth flavored with onion and parsley, then left to cool: the sauce sets into a light, shimmering jelly. Served cold, brightened with a dash of vinegar, often with some horseradish on the side.
Why this dish? An emblematic dish of Israelite families in Alsace, the native region of Dreyfus (Mulhouse). Cold fish in sauce, prepared on Friday before the start of Shabbat, opened the festive meal: a dish that young Alfred most likely knew on the family table.
Allow me to present you this dish that my mother had prepared on Friday, before the candles were lit. The carp was poached gently in its onion broth, then left to rest in the cool until the sauce set into a jelly. We ate it cold, as is proper, for the holy day does not permit relighting the stoves. Try a little horseradish with it, I beg you: it is our custom, in Alsace.
Ingredients (period version)
- River carp — a fine piece, cut into sections (festive fish, affordable and meaty)
- Onions — several (aromatic base of the sauce)
- Parsley — a bunch (flavor and color)
- Vinegar — a dash (acidic touch)
- Goose fat — a spoonful (kosher fat)
Ingredients
- Carp sections (or pike if unavailable) — 1 kg (main fish)
- Yellow onions — 3 large (aromatic base)
- Flat-leaf parsley — 1 bunch (herb)
- Goose fat — 1 tbsp (kosher cooking fat (or neutral oil))
- White wine vinegar — 2 tbsp (acidity)
- Salt, pepper, 1 bay leaf — to taste (seasoning)
- Fresh grated horseradish — for serving (pungent condiment)
Method
- Slice the onions and sweat them gently in goose fat without browning.
- Add 60 cl water, parsley, bay leaf, salt and pepper; let simmer for 15 minutes to create a flavorful broth.
- Place the carp sections in the broth and poach at a very gentle simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.
- Carefully remove the fish and arrange it in a shallow dish.
- Reduce the broth slightly, add vinegar, adjust seasoning, then pour over the fish through a strainer.
- Let cool for several hours in a cool place: the sauce will set into a jelly. Serve cold with grated horseradish.
How it was made : Before refrigeration, this dish was prepared Friday afternoon, and the cool cellar served as an icebox while the jelly set. Goose fat replaced butter to respect the meat-dairy separation of kashrut.
The contemporary twist : Plate each section coated in its trembling jelly on a slate board, with a quenelle of horseradish cream and a flash-frozen parsley leaf.
Sources : Florence Kahn, La cuisine juive ashkénaze · Freddy Raphaël, Le judaïsme alsacien (tradition culinaire)
Alfred Dreyfus · Charactorium
