Chicken marinated in lemon and onions, grilled then melted into a mountain of caramelized onions until it becomes a golden, tangy, silky sauce, served over white rice.

Why this dish? Everyday dish of Senegal, simple and hearty, which a working novelist can let simmer while she writes. Its sweet-sour onions and lemon make it the quintessential family meal, reflecting the tables Aminata Sow Fall depicts.

Yassa is patience made into cooking. I would let the chicken sleep all night in lemon juice and onions, lots of onions — never be shy with the onion, it is what makes all the richness. The next day, I would sear it over the embers so it took on that smoky flavor, then the onions would melt so long they became almost a salty jam. When writing kept me at my desk, this was the dish I entrusted to low heat: it took care of itself, like a good novel that matures while you look elsewhere.

How it was made : Yassa comes from Casamance, in southern Senegal. The meat or fish was marinated in lemon — a precious preservative under the heat — before being grilled over embers, then poached in onions: a way to tenderize and keep the meat for another day.

The contemporary twist : A pinch of candied lemon zest at serving to revive the acidity, and some raw red onions pickled for crunch.

Aminata Sow Fall · Charactorium