flipLamb Tagine with Quince and Cumin, from Biskra
Lamb Tagine with Quince and Cumin, from Biskra
Why this dish? In 1893-1895, ill and in search of himself, Gide stayed in Algeria — Algiers, Biskra. There, through contact with local foods, he experienced his sensual awakening and wrote 'Les Nourritures terrestres'. True to his taste for discovery, he adapted to the dishes of the country.
A melting lamb long simmered with quinces, honey and cumin — inspired by the sweet-and-savory tagines of the Maghreb that Gide encountered during his Algerian travels. The fragrant counterpoint to his Norman table.
Over there, under the sun of Biskra, I unlearned the frugality of my fathers. They brought me this lamb cooked for hours with quinces and honey, a dish unlike anything Normandy had taught me. The cumin went to my head like a confession. Nathanaël, did I tell you that food can be a fervor? I understood that there, finger in the sauce, without any shame.
- •Lamb shoulder — a nice piece (meat)
- •Quinces — a few (melting fruit)
- •Honey — to taste (sweetness)
- •Ground cumin and coriander — generously (spices)
- •Cinnamon — 1 stick (flavor)
- •Onions — several (base)
- •Olive oil — a drizzle (cooking)
Lamb Tagine with Quince and Cumin, from Biskra
A melting lamb long simmered with quinces, honey and cumin — inspired by the sweet-and-savory tagines of the Maghreb that Gide encountered during his Algerian travels. The fragrant counterpoint to his Norman table.
Why this dish? In 1893-1895, ill and in search of himself, Gide stayed in Algeria — Algiers, Biskra. There, through contact with local foods, he experienced his sensual awakening and wrote 'Les Nourritures terrestres'. True to his taste for discovery, he adapted to the dishes of the country.
Over there, under the sun of Biskra, I unlearned the frugality of my fathers. They brought me this lamb cooked for hours with quinces and honey, a dish unlike anything Normandy had taught me. The cumin went to my head like a confession. Nathanaël, did I tell you that food can be a fervor? I understood that there, finger in the sauce, without any shame.
Ingredients (period version)
- Lamb shoulder — a nice piece (meat)
- Quinces — a few (melting fruit)
- Honey — to taste (sweetness)
- Ground cumin and coriander — generously (spices)
- Cinnamon — 1 stick (flavor)
- Onions — several (base)
- Olive oil — a drizzle (cooking)
Ingredients
- Lamb shoulder, cut into pieces — 1.2 kg (meat)
- Quinces — 3 (melting fruit)
- Honey — 2 tbsp (sweetness)
- Ground cumin — 2 tsp (spice)
- Ground coriander — 1 tsp (spice)
- Cinnamon — 1 stick (flavor)
- Ground ginger — 1 tsp (spice)
- Onions — 3 (base)
- Olive oil — 3 tbsp (cooking)
Method
- Sear the lamb in olive oil, remove. Sweat the sliced onions with the spices and cinnamon.
- Return the meat, cover with water, simmer covered for 1 h 30 on low heat.
- Meanwhile, cut the quinces into quarters (skin on) and pan-fry with honey until colored.
- Add the quinces to the tagine, cook uncovered for 30 min to reduce the sauce.
- Adjust spices and honey, let rest and serve with semolina or bread.
How it was made : Sweet-and-savory tagines with fruits (quinces, apricots, prunes) and mild spices are ancient in Maghrebi cuisine, heirs to the Arab-Andalusian tradition. The late 19th-century European traveler discovered them as a revelation, far from butter-based cooking.
The contemporary twist : Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and a bit of candied lemon zest to brighten the sweetness.
André Gide · Charactorium
