Risoto de gò (lagoon goby risotto)
A creamy risotto built on a broth drawn entirely from the goby, a modest lagoon fish whose flesh melts into the broth — a festive dish of pure marine finesse.
A creamy risotto built on a broth drawn entirely from the goby, a modest lagoon fish whose flesh melts into the broth — a festive dish of pure marine finesse.
Here, to my mind, is the dish of the great days of our lagoon. The goby is not pretty to look at, but whoever knows how to listen draws from it a broth of unsuspected sweetness; one lets it simmer long, strains it, and it is this nectar alone that feeds the rice, drop by drop, as one leads a movement with patience. No unnecessary frills: a little butter, and let the lagoon speak for itself.
- •Lagoon gobies (*gò*) — several (broth base)
- •Venetian rice — two handfuls per guest (base)
- •Butter — a piece (binder)
- •Onion — one (aromatic)
- •Parsley and garlic — a little (flavor)
- •White wine — a glass (degreasing)
Risoto de gò (lagoon goby risotto)
A creamy risotto built on a broth drawn entirely from the goby, a modest lagoon fish whose flesh melts into the broth — a festive dish of pure marine finesse.
Why this dish? The *gò* (goby) is THE humble and tasty fish of the lagoon, from which the festive risotto of the Venetian islands was once made. For a man of Venice like Vivaldi, this lagoon-bottom dish embodies the table of ceremonial days, rich solely from the waters that surrounded his city.
Here, to my mind, is the dish of the great days of our lagoon. The goby is not pretty to look at, but whoever knows how to listen draws from it a broth of unsuspected sweetness; one lets it simmer long, strains it, and it is this nectar alone that feeds the rice, drop by drop, as one leads a movement with patience. No unnecessary frills: a little butter, and let the lagoon speak for itself.
Ingredients (period version)
- Lagoon gobies (*gò*) — several (broth base)
- Venetian rice — two handfuls per guest (base)
- Butter — a piece (binder)
- Onion — one (aromatic)
- Parsley and garlic — a little (flavor)
- White wine — a glass (degreasing)
Ingredients
- Small rock/lagoon fish (goby, or a mix for broth) — 800 g (broth)
- Risotto rice (Vialone Nano) — 320 g (base)
- Butter — 60 g (binder)
- Onion — 1 (aromatic)
- Dry white wine — 150 ml (degreasing)
- Garlic and parsley — 1 clove + 1 handful (flavor)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Prepare a broth: sweat the fish with onion, garlic, and parsley, add water, simmer for 40 min, then strain finely.
- Sauté chopped onion in half the butter, add rice and toast.
- Deglaze with white wine, let evaporate.
- Add hot broth ladle by ladle, stirring, for 16-18 min.
- Off heat, stir in remaining butter (*mantecatura*), adjust seasoning, sprinkle with parsley. Serve creamy.
How it was made : Goby risotto is the pride of Burano; lacking gobies, cooks would make the broth with the unsold small fish of the lagoon. The slow cooking technique with broth, without cream or thickener, gave all its soul to Venetian rice.
The contemporary twist : A crispy fish skin chip placed on the rice dome, like a treble clef on the score.
Antonio Vivaldi · Charactorium