flipRoast Partridge on a Canapé
Roast Partridge on a Canapé
Why this dish? Seasonal game figured on the menus of Parisian bourgeois dinners at the Manet-Morisot household; roast partridge, set on a bread canapé soaked in its juices, was the roast of honour at a multi-course reception meal.
A young partridge, barded and roasted hot, served on a slice of bread rubbed and spread with its giblets; fine flesh, golden skin, short concentrated jus.
When we entertained, rue de Villejust, the roast always made its little effect, and partridge more than any other. We barded it with a thin sheet of lard, seared it hot in the well-heated oven, and set beneath it a slice of bread that drank up all the essence — that, believe me, is where the best lies. I never liked overly clever sauces or long preparations: a fine short jus, and let the thing keep its taste.
- •Partridge (young bird) — 1 per guest (centrepiece)
- •Lard barding sheet — 1 thin sheet (protects and nourishes the flesh)
- •Butter — a knob (roasting)
- •Slice of stale bread — 1 per bird (canapé)
- •Giblets (liver, heart) — those of the bird (spread for canapé)
- •Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Roast Partridge on a Canapé
A young partridge, barded and roasted hot, served on a slice of bread rubbed and spread with its giblets; fine flesh, golden skin, short concentrated jus.
Why this dish? Seasonal game figured on the menus of Parisian bourgeois dinners at the Manet-Morisot household; roast partridge, set on a bread canapé soaked in its juices, was the roast of honour at a multi-course reception meal.
When we entertained, rue de Villejust, the roast always made its little effect, and partridge more than any other. We barded it with a thin sheet of lard, seared it hot in the well-heated oven, and set beneath it a slice of bread that drank up all the essence — that, believe me, is where the best lies. I never liked overly clever sauces or long preparations: a fine short jus, and let the thing keep its taste.
Ingredients (period version)
- Partridge (young bird) — 1 per guest (centrepiece)
- Lard barding sheet — 1 thin sheet (protects and nourishes the flesh)
- Butter — a knob (roasting)
- Slice of stale bread — 1 per bird (canapé)
- Giblets (liver, heart) — those of the bird (spread for canapé)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Ready-to-cook partridge — 2 (for 2-4 people) (centrepiece)
- Fine lard barding sheets — 2 (protects the flesh)
- Butter — 40 g (roasting)
- Country bread — 2 slices (canapé)
- Chicken livers — 2 (spread)
- Stock or water — 100 ml (deglazing)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Preheat oven to 220°C. Season inside of partridges with salt and pepper, bard and truss them.
- Brush with melted butter and roast for 18 to 22 minutes, basting, until skin is golden and flesh still slightly pink.
- Sauté livers in a little butter, mash with salt and pepper, spread on bread slices; brown them.
- Deglaze roasting pan with stock for a short jus; place each partridge on its canapé and spoon over jus.
How it was made : The game roast 'on a canapé' is a classic presentation of 19th-century grand bourgeois cuisine: the bread collects the juices and giblets, nothing is wasted. The bird was often flambéed at the start of cooking to firm the skin.
The contemporary twist : Serve the canapé as a separate bite, like an appetizer toast with cress-topped livers — a nod to the still lifes of the period.
Berthe Morisot · Charactorium
