A thin veal cutlet coated in a golden, puffed breading, fried in lard until it swells and crisps, finished with a simple squeeze of lemon. The pinnacle of Viennese domestic art.

Why this dish? The Viennese cutlet is THE emblematic dish of the Viennese bourgeoisie in Menger's time, served on reception days and Sundays. For a respected professor at the University of Vienna, it was the dish of hospitality par excellence.

Allow me to explain, for mistakes are often made. The true Viennese cutlet must be beaten until thin as a leaf, then passed through flour, egg, and breadcrumbs — never pressed, or the crust sticks to the flesh instead of puffing. Fry it in very hot lard, moving the pan with a supple motion, and the crust lifts like a sail. A quarter of lemon, and nothing else: perfection, you see, is always in moderation.

How it was made : In the 19th century, frying was always done in lard, with enough fat so the cutlet swam: this bath makes the breading puff. It was accompanied by parsley potatoes or a warm potato salad (the potato, from the New World, had become completely common in Central Europe since the 18th century).

The contemporary twist : Slide a leaf of wild garlic into the breading in spring, for a green perfume that surprises under the golden crust.

Carl Menger · Charactorium