Sencha, the green tea of the study table
A teapot of sencha brewed briefly, in water neither boiling nor tepid. The first sip is clear, slightly astringent, then a vegetal sweetness settles in. The drink of sustained attention.
A teapot of sencha brewed briefly, in water neither boiling nor tepid. The first sip is clear, slightly astringent, then a vegetal sweetness settles in. The drink of sustained attention.
I always let the water cool a little before pouring it over the leaves — boiling, it draws only bitterness from the tea, and that would waste good leaves. About seventy degrees, a short wait, and the liquor comes out a tender green. During long evenings over my pigments, this bowl has kept me company more often than any human being; I owe it the care of a proper brew.
- •Sencha leaves — one measure (tea)
- •Cooled spring water — as needed (infusion)
Sencha, the green tea of the study table
A teapot of sencha brewed briefly, in water neither boiling nor tepid. The first sip is clear, slightly astringent, then a vegetal sweetness settles in. The drink of sustained attention.
Why this dish? Green tea closes every meal in Chika Kuroda's record and certainly accompanied her long hours of study. For a chemist, brewing is again a matter of temperature and time: too hot, the water extracts bitterness; well controlled, it releases the sweetness (umami) of the young leaves.
I always let the water cool a little before pouring it over the leaves — boiling, it draws only bitterness from the tea, and that would waste good leaves. About seventy degrees, a short wait, and the liquor comes out a tender green. During long evenings over my pigments, this bowl has kept me company more often than any human being; I owe it the care of a proper brew.
Ingredients (period version)
- Sencha leaves — one measure (tea)
- Cooled spring water — as needed (infusion)
Ingredients
- Sencha green tea — 6 g (≈ 2 tsp) (tea)
- Low-mineral water — 300 ml (infusion)
Method
- Bring water to a boil then let it cool to 70 °C (pour it into empty bowls to cool it and preheat the vessels).
- Place the sencha in a small teapot (kyūsu).
- Pour the tempered water over the leaves and let steep for about 1 minute.
- Serve in several small cups by pouring back and forth to distribute the strength evenly down to the last drop (the most flavorful).
- Re-infuse the same leaves once or twice, with slightly hotter water.
How it was made : Rolled-leaf sencha had become established in Japanese households well before the Meiji era, distinct from the powdered matcha of the tea ceremony. Water was heated on a brazier and transferred from bowl to bowl to cool it and gauge its temperature, lacking a thermometer.
The contemporary twist : Served cold in summer (mizudashi: leaves infused cold for several hours in the refrigerator), sencha reveals a sweetness without any bitterness.
Sources : Ishige Naomichi, The History and Culture of Japanese Food (2001)
Chika Kuroda · Charactorium