A sweet wine warmed with honey, perfumed with pepper, saffron, and cinnamon. The sweet, spiced drink that whetted the appetite and lifted the spirits.

Why this dish? Mulsum, wine with honey, traditionally opened the Roman meal and accompanied the gustatio. The Christians of Rome, who shared wine mixed with water during their meals and celebrations, were well acquainted with this convivial drink — Clement, a man of his time and city, would have served it to his guests.

Before eating, take this cup, as befits any self-respecting Roman host. Mulsum is prepared by mixing generous honey with good wine — the best is from Hymettus — then a little pepper and saffron to warm it. Cut it with water if you are sober, for we are not those banqueters who get drunk. Drink slowly, and let this sweetness open your heart as well as your appetite.

How it was made : Mulsum was the quintessential aperitif among Romans: Apicius gives several recipes. It was often prepared in advance by macerating honey in the wine. Drinking wine undiluted (merum) was considered barbaric; Romans always cut it with water, and Christians shared this custom.

The contemporary twist : Serve mulsum warm in winter, like an ancient mulled wine, in small ceramic cups — the Mediterranean ancestor of Christmas market mulled wine.

Sources : Apicius, De Re Coquinaria, Book I · Columella, De Re Rustica

Clement of Rome · Charactorium