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Mehlspeise — the Floury Entremets, Sweet Summit of the Viennese Meal

Wiener Apfelstrudel (Viennese Apple Strudel)

FestiveDocumented🍯 🍋difficile1 h 30

A hand-stretched dough until transparent, filled with apples, raisins, cinnamon and buttered breadcrumbs, then rolled and baked until it crackles under the tooth. Served warm, dusted with powdered sugar.

Mehlspeise — the Floury Entremets, Sweet Summit of the Viennese Meal

A hand-stretched dough until transparent, filled with apples, raisins, cinnamon and buttered breadcrumbs, then rolled and baked until it crackles under the tooth. Served warm, dusted with powdered sugar.

If you want to make strudel as we did at home in Vienna, you first need courage and patient hands. You stretch the dough on a large cloth, gently, with your fingertips, until it becomes so thin you could read the newspaper through it — my grandmother said you had to see the letters. The breadcrumbs browned in butter, slipped under the apples, absorb the juice and prevent the dough from getting soggy: it is a small physical principle, after all. We served it warm, on feast days, and everyone fell silent at the first bite.
Lise Meitner
Ingredients
  • Wheat flour, warm water, oil, one egg, saltfor a soft dough (stretched strudel dough)
  • Tart applesa good amount (filling)
  • Soaked raisinsa handful (sweetness)
  • Breadcrumbs browned in buttera plateful (absorbs juice)
  • Sugar, cinnamonto taste (sweet seasoning)
  • Melted butteras needed (brushing and baking)
How it was made : Strudel descends from Ottoman baklavas that arrived in Vienna during the Empire: the transparent stretched dough is its direct heir. In bourgeois kitchens, stretching the dough on the large table was a skill passed from mother to daughter. Buttered breadcrumbs, an economical trick, turned stale bread into a barrier against fruit moisture.
Sources : Joseph Wechsberg, The Cooking of Vienna's Empire, Time-Life Books · Franz Maier-Bruck, Das große Sacher Kochbuch

See also