flipSainte-Ménehould Pig's Trotters
Sainte-Ménehould Pig's Trotters
Why this dish? During the flight to Varennes in June 1791, the royal family crossed Champagne. Legend has it that the king, a gourmand even in flight, appreciated the famous Sainte-Ménehould pig's trotters, a specialty of the region he was passing through — a dish of waystations and travel, long simmered then grilled.
Pig's trotters cooked very slowly until the bones melt, breaded and grilled, crispy on the outside and melting inside, spiced with mustard. The solid meal of travelers and posting stations.
They urge Me to hasten, but a man cannot run on an empty stomach. In this Champagne we cross, they prepare the pig's foot in an admirable way: it is cooked for hours, so long that even the bone is edible, then breaded and grilled until a fine golden crust forms. With a touch of strong mustard, it is enough to sustain a king on the roads. Alas, one does not travel well with a heavy heart; but this dish, at least, has never betrayed Me.
- •Pig's trotters — four (main meat)
- •Aromatic broth (onion, clove, thyme, bay leaf) — enough to cover (long cooking)
- •Breadcrumbs — as needed (crispy coating)
- •Melted butter — as needed (grill browning)
- •Strong mustard — at serving (condiment)
Sainte-Ménehould Pig's Trotters
Pig's trotters cooked very slowly until the bones melt, breaded and grilled, crispy on the outside and melting inside, spiced with mustard. The solid meal of travelers and posting stations.
Why this dish? During the flight to Varennes in June 1791, the royal family crossed Champagne. Legend has it that the king, a gourmand even in flight, appreciated the famous Sainte-Ménehould pig's trotters, a specialty of the region he was passing through — a dish of waystations and travel, long simmered then grilled.
They urge Me to hasten, but a man cannot run on an empty stomach. In this Champagne we cross, they prepare the pig's foot in an admirable way: it is cooked for hours, so long that even the bone is edible, then breaded and grilled until a fine golden crust forms. With a touch of strong mustard, it is enough to sustain a king on the roads. Alas, one does not travel well with a heavy heart; but this dish, at least, has never betrayed Me.
Ingredients (period version)
- Pig's trotters — four (main meat)
- Aromatic broth (onion, clove, thyme, bay leaf) — enough to cover (long cooking)
- Breadcrumbs — as needed (crispy coating)
- Melted butter — as needed (grill browning)
- Strong mustard — at serving (condiment)
Ingredients
- Pig's trotters (halved) — 4 (main meat)
- Onion studded with 2 cloves, carrot, thyme, bay leaf — 1 garnish (broth)
- Breadcrumbs — 150 g (coating)
- Melted butter — 60 g (browning)
- Dijon mustard — at serving (condiment)
Method
- Tie each trotter (to keep its shape) and plunge them into an aromatic broth. Cook for 5 to 6 hours at a very gentle simmer, until the flesh and cartilage are completely tender.
- Drain, remove the string, let cool slightly then refrigerate to firm up.
- Brush with melted butter, roll generously in breadcrumbs.
- Place in a 220°C oven or under the grill for 15 to 20 minutes, turning, until a well-browned and crispy crust forms.
- Serve very hot with strong mustard and a green salad.
How it was made : The Sainte-Ménehould recipe, attested from the 18th century, relies on such slow cooking that the bones become friable and edible. It was a posting station dish, nourishing and portable, ideal on the roads of Champagne — the very roads taken by the royal berline.
The contemporary twist : The link between the gourmand king and his flight is romanticized: the historical truth of this specific episode is uncertain. Serve it 'street-food style' on a board with a small pot of honey mustard.
Sources : Culinary tradition of Sainte-Ménehould (Champagne), 18th century
Louis XVI · Charactorium
