flipDried pear and quince preserves
Dried pear and quince preserves
Why this dish? "Fruits confits" appear explicitly among the sweets on her table. Preserved in sugar, these preserves allowed the taste of autumn fruits to be kept all winter and shone on the sideboards during the last service, a mark of refinement and wealth.
Quarters of pears and quinces slowly candied in a sugar syrup, then dried. A keepable sweet that crowned meals and could be stored for months.
When autumn comes and the quinces perfume the pantry, I have them candied over a low fire in a fine clarified sugar syrup, and the pears likewise. Patience is needed, for they are left several days to take the sugar before being dried. Thus kept, they adorn my table all winter and delight whoever comes to see me.
- •Firm pears — several (fruit)
- •Quinces — a few (fruit)
- •Sugar — in good quantity (preservation)
- •Water — for syrup (syrup)
Dried pear and quince preserves
Quarters of pears and quinces slowly candied in a sugar syrup, then dried. A keepable sweet that crowned meals and could be stored for months.
Why this dish? "Fruits confits" appear explicitly among the sweets on her table. Preserved in sugar, these preserves allowed the taste of autumn fruits to be kept all winter and shone on the sideboards during the last service, a mark of refinement and wealth.
When autumn comes and the quinces perfume the pantry, I have them candied over a low fire in a fine clarified sugar syrup, and the pears likewise. Patience is needed, for they are left several days to take the sugar before being dried. Thus kept, they adorn my table all winter and delight whoever comes to see me.
Ingredients (period version)
- Firm pears — several (fruit)
- Quinces — a few (fruit)
- Sugar — in good quantity (preservation)
- Water — for syrup (syrup)
Ingredients
- Firm pears (e.g., Conference) — 4 (fruit)
- Quinces — 2 (fruit)
- Sugar — 500 g (preservation)
- Water — 50 cl (syrup)
- Lemon juice (period option: verjus) — 1 dash (acidity/anti-browning)
Method
- Peel and quarter pears and quinces, remove cores; sprinkle with lemon juice.
- Poach the fruits for 10 minutes in simmering water to soften, especially the quinces.
- Prepare a syrup with the sugar and cooking water, immerse the fruits.
- Let candy over very low heat, then rest off heat; repeat over 2 to 3 days for the sugar to penetrate.
- Drain the fruits, dry them in a very low oven (60°C) or in the air until just sticky.
- Store in an airtight container, separated by parchment paper.
How it was made : The art of "dry" and "liquid" preserves was a major domestic science, detailed by Nostradamus as early as the 16th century and later by noble households. Sugar, still costly, signified rank; candied fruits were offered to distinguished visitors.
The contemporary twist : A few candied quarters rolled in crystal sugar, served with a aged cheese—the sweet-savory pairing that is coming back into fashion.
Sources : Nostradamus, Traité des fardements et confitures, 1555 · La Varenne, Le Confiturier françois, 1660
Madame de La Fayette · Charactorium
