flipQuince Cotignac (Firm Fruit Paste)
Quince Cotignac (Firm Fruit Paste)
Why this dish? Firm jams and fruit pastes were the glory of 17th-century 'offices', presented at the end of feasts and offered to distinguished guests. Molière, received in wealthy homes and at court, saw them appear at the grand meals following his performances.
A firm, translucent quince paste, long cooked with sugar until it can be kept for months. The noble candy of the Grand Siècle, cut into fragrant diamond shapes.
To finish sweetly, I keep a treat that defies time: cotignac. Cook the flesh of quinces with their weight in sugar, stir, stir over the fire until the paste leaves the spoon like an actor finally leaving the stage. Spread it, let it set, cut it into diamonds — and it keeps all winter. This is the science of the office, and I swear it sweetens even a misanthrope's mood.
- •Quinces — several, very ripe (base fruit)
- •Sugar — about the weight of the pulp (preservation and binding)
- •Quince cooking liquid — a little (moisture and pectin)
Quince Cotignac (Firm Fruit Paste)
A firm, translucent quince paste, long cooked with sugar until it can be kept for months. The noble candy of the Grand Siècle, cut into fragrant diamond shapes.
Why this dish? Firm jams and fruit pastes were the glory of 17th-century 'offices', presented at the end of feasts and offered to distinguished guests. Molière, received in wealthy homes and at court, saw them appear at the grand meals following his performances.
To finish sweetly, I keep a treat that defies time: cotignac. Cook the flesh of quinces with their weight in sugar, stir, stir over the fire until the paste leaves the spoon like an actor finally leaving the stage. Spread it, let it set, cut it into diamonds — and it keeps all winter. This is the science of the office, and I swear it sweetens even a misanthrope's mood.
Ingredients (period version)
- Quinces — several, very ripe (base fruit)
- Sugar — about the weight of the pulp (preservation and binding)
- Quince cooking liquid — a little (moisture and pectin)
Ingredients
- Ripe quinces — 1 kg (base fruit)
- Sugar — about 700 g (depending on pulp weight) (preservation and binding)
- Lemon juice — 1 tbsp (acidity and set)
Method
- Wash quinces, cut them, and cook in water until tender, without peeling.
- Pass the flesh through a sieve or food mill to obtain a fine purée; weigh the pulp.
- Add sugar close to the weight of the pulp and the lemon juice.
- Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the paste thickens and pulls away from the bottom (20-30 min).
- Spread 1-2 cm thick in a lined dish, let dry in the air for 24-48 hours.
- Cut into diamonds and optionally roll in sugar; store in a dry place.
How it was made : Cotignac (especially from Orléans) was a prestigious gift offered to kings and ambassadors. Preservation relied on the high sugar content, which became more accessible in the 17th century: 'dry jams' could be kept for months in office boxes, alongside candied fruits.
The contemporary twist : Cut the paste with small mask-shaped cookie cutters and present on gold paper, like theatrical petits fours.
Sources : Nicolas de Bonnefons, Les Délices de la campagne, 1654
Molière · Charactorium
