flipLeeks Vinaigrette with Mustard
Leeks Vinaigrette with Mustard
Why this dish? The timeless classic of Parisian brasseries that Foucault frequented casually between sessions at the Collège de France: simple, honest, placed on the zinc counter without ceremony.
Warm, tender leeks coated in a mustard and shallot vinaigrette. The archetype of the bistro starter: hardly anything, but perfectly executed.
You see, there is nothing more instructive than a plate of leeks vinaigrette at a brasserie counter. One might think it modest; I see a small device of pleasure perfectly regulated. The secret lies in one gesture: you whisk the mustard and vinegar before the oil, never the reverse, and you salt the leeks while still warm so they drink in the seasoning. I ate it a hundred times, a cigarette within reach, while reshaping the world with friends. Do not seek sophistication: seek rightness.
- •Leeks — one bunch (base vegetable)
- •Dijon mustard — a good spoonful (binder and heat)
- •Wine vinegar — a dash (acidity)
- •Oil — as needed (body of the sauce)
- •Shallot — one (flavor)
Leeks Vinaigrette with Mustard
Warm, tender leeks coated in a mustard and shallot vinaigrette. The archetype of the bistro starter: hardly anything, but perfectly executed.
Why this dish? The timeless classic of Parisian brasseries that Foucault frequented casually between sessions at the Collège de France: simple, honest, placed on the zinc counter without ceremony.
You see, there is nothing more instructive than a plate of leeks vinaigrette at a brasserie counter. One might think it modest; I see a small device of pleasure perfectly regulated. The secret lies in one gesture: you whisk the mustard and vinegar before the oil, never the reverse, and you salt the leeks while still warm so they drink in the seasoning. I ate it a hundred times, a cigarette within reach, while reshaping the world with friends. Do not seek sophistication: seek rightness.
Ingredients (period version)
- Leeks — one bunch (base vegetable)
- Dijon mustard — a good spoonful (binder and heat)
- Wine vinegar — a dash (acidity)
- Oil — as needed (body of the sauce)
- Shallot — one (flavor)
Ingredients
- Medium leeks — 4 (base vegetable)
- Dijon mustard — 1 tbsp (binder and heat)
- Red wine vinegar — 2 tbsp (acidity)
- Neutral or mild olive oil — 6 tbsp (body of the sauce)
- Finely chopped shallot — 1 (flavor)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Clean the leeks, keep only the white and tender green, split lengthwise.
- Cook in boiling salted water for 12 to 15 minutes, until a knife tip goes through without resistance.
- Drain gently and press to remove excess water, then let cool slightly.
- Whisk the mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper, then drizzle in the oil to emulsify. Add the shallot.
- Arrange the leeks, coat with vinaigrette, and let sit for 10 minutes before serving warm.
How it was made : In post-war brasseries, leeks vinaigrette were served at room temperature, prepared in the morning for lunch service. The mustard and shallot vinaigrette was the standard counter dressing, without frills.
The contemporary twist : A few trout roe and a splash of cider vinegar transform the humble plate into a bistronomic wink, without betraying the spirit.
Michel Foucault · Charactorium
