Clear Chicken Consommé with Tapioca Pearls
A chicken broth clarified to amber transparency, lightly seasoned, with a few translucent tapioca pearls floating in it. Hot, comforting, with a gentleness that caresses the vocal cords.
A chicken broth clarified to amber transparency, lightly seasoned, with a few translucent tapioca pearls floating in it. Hot, comforting, with a gentleness that caresses the vocal cords.
Before going on stage, I eat nothing; but afterwards, when the curtain has fallen and the bravos fade, nothing beats a clear consommé, piping hot, sipped in small sips. It must be as clear as gold — at the best houses, they clarify it with egg whites patiently. A few tapioca pearls dancing in it, a pinch of salt, and the throat relaxes. That is my true luxury, believe me, far more than diamonds.
- •Hen or poultry carcasses — enough for a good broth (base)
- •Carrot, leek, onion, celery — a bouquet (aromatics)
- •Egg whites — two or three (clarification)
- •Tapioca — one spoonful (garnish)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Clear Chicken Consommé with Tapioca Pearls
A chicken broth clarified to amber transparency, lightly seasoned, with a few translucent tapioca pearls floating in it. Hot, comforting, with a gentleness that caresses the vocal cords.
Why this dish? Mindful of her voice, Melba avoided heavy dishes before singing; a clear, hot broth that warms and soothes the throat without burdening the stomach was the ideal opening for the after-show supper of Belle Époque divas.
Before going on stage, I eat nothing; but afterwards, when the curtain has fallen and the bravos fade, nothing beats a clear consommé, piping hot, sipped in small sips. It must be as clear as gold — at the best houses, they clarify it with egg whites patiently. A few tapioca pearls dancing in it, a pinch of salt, and the throat relaxes. That is my true luxury, believe me, far more than diamonds.
Ingredients (period version)
- Hen or poultry carcasses — enough for a good broth (base)
- Carrot, leek, onion, celery — a bouquet (aromatics)
- Egg whites — two or three (clarification)
- Tapioca — one spoonful (garnish)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Homemade chicken broth — 1.5 L (base)
- Egg whites — 2 (clarification)
- Carrot + leek white — 1 of each, finely diced (clarification aromatics)
- Tapioca pearls — 2 tbsp (garnish)
- Fine salt — to taste (seasoning)
- Fresh chervil — a few sprigs (finish)
Method
- Carefully degrease the cold broth and remove any surface fat.
- Whisk the egg whites with the finely diced vegetables, incorporate into the cold broth, then heat gently without stirring: the whites coagulate and form a raft that traps impurities.
- Let simmer very gently for 30 minutes, then carefully strain through a fine cloth: the consommé must be perfectly clear.
- Cook the tapioca separately in a little broth until translucent, then drain.
- Adjust salt, divide the pearls among warm cups, pour the boiling consommé over, and garnish with a few chervil sprigs.
How it was made : The double-clarified consommé was the pride of Belle Époque kitchens: a symbol of technical mastery and refinement. It was served in handled cups, sometimes jellied in summer. Tapioca pearls, then in vogue, provided a light and elegant garnish.
The contemporary twist : Served in a fine teacup with saucer, like a "loge broth" to sip during intermission.
Sources : Auguste Escoffier, Le Guide culinaire (1903), chapter on consommés
Nellie Melba · Charactorium
