Sayur lodeh
A broth of mixed vegetables simmered in coconut milk spiced with galangal, turmeric, and salam leaves. The vegetables change with the season — long beans, chayote, young jackfruit, eggplant — but the santan base remains constant. It is the foundation of the Javanese meal, humble and nourishing.
A broth of mixed vegetables simmered in coconut milk spiced with galangal, turmeric, and salam leaves. The vegetables change with the season — long beans, chayote, young jackfruit, eggplant — but the santan base remains constant. It is the foundation of the Javanese meal, humble and nourishing.
You see, in our house in Jepara, the sayur lodeh steamed on the table every midday, as certain as the sun over the rice fields. The women of the kitchen — for it was always the women who bore this task — grated the coconut at dawn, pounded the turmeric that stained their fingers yellow. I would wish that these same women, instead of spending their entire lives bent over the mortar, could also open a book. But I will never despise this lodeh: it is the very tenderness of Java, poured into a bowl.
- •Fresh coconut milk (santan) — one whole coconut, grated and pressed (broth base)
- •Long beans (kacang panjang) — one bunch (main vegetable)
- •Chayote (labu siam) — one fruit, cut (vegetable)
- •Young jackfruit (nangka muda) — one portion, chopped (vegetable)
- •Galangal (laos) — a two-finger piece (aromatic)
- •Fresh turmeric (kunyit) — a one-finger piece (colors and perfumes)
- •Salam leaves — two leaves (aromatic)
- •Lemongrass (serai) — one stalk, crushed (aromatic)
- •Shrimp paste (terasi) — a hazelnut-sized piece, grilled (umami)
- •Red chili — to taste (spiciness)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Sayur lodeh
A broth of mixed vegetables simmered in coconut milk spiced with galangal, turmeric, and salam leaves. The vegetables change with the season — long beans, chayote, young jackfruit, eggplant — but the santan base remains constant. It is the foundation of the Javanese meal, humble and nourishing.
Why this dish? Sayur lodeh is the quintessential everyday dish in Javanese households of all conditions. At the table of the Jepara priyayi, it accompanied every rice meal. Kartini, who described in her letters the domestic life of Javanese women and their confinement to the kitchen and home, knew intimately this preparation that the women of the household made every day.
You see, in our house in Jepara, the sayur lodeh steamed on the table every midday, as certain as the sun over the rice fields. The women of the kitchen — for it was always the women who bore this task — grated the coconut at dawn, pounded the turmeric that stained their fingers yellow. I would wish that these same women, instead of spending their entire lives bent over the mortar, could also open a book. But I will never despise this lodeh: it is the very tenderness of Java, poured into a bowl.
Ingredients (period version)
- Fresh coconut milk (santan) — one whole coconut, grated and pressed (broth base)
- Long beans (kacang panjang) — one bunch (main vegetable)
- Chayote (labu siam) — one fruit, cut (vegetable)
- Young jackfruit (nangka muda) — one portion, chopped (vegetable)
- Galangal (laos) — a two-finger piece (aromatic)
- Fresh turmeric (kunyit) — a one-finger piece (colors and perfumes)
- Salam leaves — two leaves (aromatic)
- Lemongrass (serai) — one stalk, crushed (aromatic)
- Shrimp paste (terasi) — a hazelnut-sized piece, grilled (umami)
- Red chili — to taste (spiciness)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Canned coconut milk — 400 ml (broth base)
- Water — 300 ml (dilution)
- Green beans or long beans — 150 g, cut into pieces (main vegetable)
- Chayote or zucchini — 1 medium, diced (vegetable)
- Canned jackfruit (or white cabbage) — 100 g, shredded (vegetable)
- Fresh galangal (or 1 tsp powder) — 3 cm, crushed (aromatic)
- Fresh turmeric (or 1 tsp powder) — 2 cm, grated (colors and perfumes)
- Bay leaves (salam substitute) — 2 leaves (aromatic)
- Lemongrass — 1 stalk, crushed (aromatic)
- Shrimp paste (or 1 tbsp fish sauce) — 1 tsp (umami)
- Fresh or dried red chili — 1 to 2, to taste (spiciness)
- Salt — 1 tsp (seasoning)
Method
- Prepare the vegetables: cut the beans into 4 cm pieces, the chayote into dice, the jackfruit (or cabbage) into pieces.
- Crush the galangal, grate the turmeric. Crush the lemongrass stalk with the flat of a knife.
- In a pot, pour the coconut milk and water. Add the galangal, turmeric, lemongrass, bay leaves, and shrimp paste. Bring to a gentle boil, stirring.
- First add the jackfruit (or cabbage) and chayote, which need more cooking. Simmer for 10 minutes over medium heat.
- Add the beans and chili. Continue cooking for 7 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables are tender but still slightly crunchy.
- Season with salt, taste, and adjust. Remove the lemongrass and bay leaves before serving.
- Serve hot in a bowl, alongside plain white rice.
How it was made : Sayur lodeh was cooked over a wood fire in a wajan (earth or iron wok), with coconut milk hand-pressed that same morning. The vegetables varied according to the season and the family garden. The terasi (fermented shrimp paste) was grilled over the embers before being pounded into the bumbu (spice paste), giving it a characteristic smoky depth.
The contemporary twist : You can serve this lodeh in a polished coconut bowl, garnished with a few crispy grilled tempeh chips for crunch.
Sources : Sri Owen, The Food of Indonesia, 1999 · Suryatini N. Ganie, Kumpulan Resep Masakan Jawa, 1995
Raden Ajeng Kartini · Charactorium
