Zebu romazava with three greens
A clear, fragrant broth of zebu pieces simmered with an assortment of greens (brèdes mafana, black nightshade greens, bok choy), seasoned with ginger and onion. The brède mafana slightly tingles the tongue: it is the touch that makes this dish inimitable.
A clear, fragrant broth of zebu pieces simmered with an assortment of greens (brèdes mafana, black nightshade greens, bok choy), seasoned with ginger and onion. The brède mafana slightly tingles the tongue: it is the touch that makes this dish inimitable.
Approach, and let yourself be served. At my ancestors' table, romazava always opened the feast: it is the dish of queens and commoners alike, and therein lies its greatness. The best zebu from the royal herd was chosen, it was gently sung in water with ginger, then the greens picked that morning were plunged in. Taste the brède mafana that pricks the mouth — my people said it awakens the heart. Even in Algiers, far from my highlands, I dreamed of this green broth that smelled of Antananarivo.
- •Zebu meat (stewing cuts) — a good piece (base of the broth)
- •Brèdes mafana — an armful (signature spicy green)
- •Greens (black nightshade, bok choy, or mustard) — two armfuls (broth greens)
- •Fresh ginger — a finger (aromatic)
- •Onion — one (base)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Zebu romazava with three greens
A clear, fragrant broth of zebu pieces simmered with an assortment of greens (brèdes mafana, black nightshade greens, bok choy), seasoned with ginger and onion. The brède mafana slightly tingles the tongue: it is the touch that makes this dish inimitable.
Why this dish? Romazava is the national dish of Madagascar, already served to the Merina sovereigns of the 19th century. At the table of the Rova of Antananarivo, Ranavalona III saw this zebu and greens broth open the great court meals: a ceremonial dish that has remained deeply popular.
Approach, and let yourself be served. At my ancestors' table, romazava always opened the feast: it is the dish of queens and commoners alike, and therein lies its greatness. The best zebu from the royal herd was chosen, it was gently sung in water with ginger, then the greens picked that morning were plunged in. Taste the brède mafana that pricks the mouth — my people said it awakens the heart. Even in Algiers, far from my highlands, I dreamed of this green broth that smelled of Antananarivo.
Ingredients (period version)
- Zebu meat (stewing cuts) — a good piece (base of the broth)
- Brèdes mafana — an armful (signature spicy green)
- Greens (black nightshade, bok choy, or mustard) — two armfuls (broth greens)
- Fresh ginger — a finger (aromatic)
- Onion — one (base)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Beef for stew (shank, chuck) — 600 g (base of the broth)
- Watercress or spinach (instead of brèdes) — 300 g (greens)
- Mustard greens or spinach shoots — 200 g (complementary greens)
- Fresh ginger — 20 g grated (aromatic)
- Onion — 1 large (base)
- Water — 1.5 L (broth)
- Salt — 1.5 tsp (seasoning)
Method
- Cut the meat into large cubes, place in a pot with cold water, sliced onion, and grated ginger.
- Bring to a simmer and skim, then cover and simmer for 1 h 30 until the meat is tender.
- Season with salt, then add the washed and roughly chopped greens.
- Cook for another 10 minutes: the leaves should remain green and the broth clear.
- Serve piping hot, pouring the broth over a large bowl of white rice.
How it was made : In the 19th century, romazava was simmered over a wood fire in a cast-iron pot, with local zebu and the day's greens. The broth was used to moisten the rice, the central food: among the Merina, one did not really 'eat' without rice.
The contemporary twist : Serve the broth separately in a small cup, like an opening consommé, before pouring it over the rice at the table — a nod to the ritual of the Rova.
Ranavalona III · Charactorium
