flipSamovar Tea (Zavarka)
Samovar Tea (Zavarka)
Why this dish? Scriabin, a refined man somewhat obsessive about his health, feared germs: scalding tea and the sociability of the samovar were at the center of his Moscow days, between pages of sheet music.
A very concentrated black tea decoction, kept warm on the samovar and diluted with boiling water cup by cup. It is drunk scalding hot, sometimes with a spoonful of jam melting slowly on the tongue.
You see, the water must sing before it boils — that trembling is already music. I let the zavarka steep black as ink in the little teapot, then cut it with fiery water to the amber shade that suits me. Never lukewarm, I beg you: only heat drives out miasmas and loosens the mind. A spoonful of cherry jam on the tongue, a scalding sip over it, and the soul rises a half-tone.
- •Black tea from China or Georgia — a good pinch per cup (base of the decoction)
- •Spring water boiled in the samovar — as needed (dilutes the tea)
- •Lump sugar or jam — to taste (accompanying sweetness)
Samovar Tea (Zavarka)
A very concentrated black tea decoction, kept warm on the samovar and diluted with boiling water cup by cup. It is drunk scalding hot, sometimes with a spoonful of jam melting slowly on the tongue.
Why this dish? Scriabin, a refined man somewhat obsessive about his health, feared germs: scalding tea and the sociability of the samovar were at the center of his Moscow days, between pages of sheet music.
You see, the water must sing before it boils — that trembling is already music. I let the zavarka steep black as ink in the little teapot, then cut it with fiery water to the amber shade that suits me. Never lukewarm, I beg you: only heat drives out miasmas and loosens the mind. A spoonful of cherry jam on the tongue, a scalding sip over it, and the soul rises a half-tone.
Ingredients (period version)
- Black tea from China or Georgia — a good pinch per cup (base of the decoction)
- Spring water boiled in the samovar — as needed (dilutes the tea)
- Lump sugar or jam — to taste (accompanying sweetness)
Ingredients
- Loose black tea (e.g., Russian Caravan or Assam) — 3 tsp (concentrated decoction)
- Water — 1 liter + water for decoction (infusion and dilution)
- Cherry jam — 1 tsp per cup (sweetness)
- Lemon slice (optional) — 1 per cup (brightness)
Method
- Boil water. Rinse a small teapot with boiling water.
- Add the tea and pour only 200 ml of boiling water: this is the zavarka, a very strong decoction. Let steep 5-7 minutes.
- In each cup, pour a little zavarka (1-2 fingers) then dilute with boiling water to desired strength.
- Serve scalding hot, with sugar, jam on the side, or a lemon slice.
How it was made : The samovar, made of copper or brass, heated water via a central tube filled with hot coals. The teapot of zavarka stayed warm on top. This mechanism allowed serving tea all day without relighting the fire — hence its central place in Russian homes of all classes.
The contemporary twist : Serve the zavarka in a podstakannik, the engraved glass-holder from Russian trains, to drink tea in a glass like in the Trans-Siberian dining car.
Alexander Scriabin · Charactorium
