flipBlancmange of capon for convalescents
Blancmange of capon for convalescents
Why this dish? As a surgeon, Paré knew that healing was not only with the scalpel: the wounded and operated needed to be restored. Blancmange—pounded chicken breast, almond milk, and sugar—was THE dish given to the sick and weak, mild, white, easy to swallow. A dish that mirrored his more humane medicine.
A delicate white cream of pounded chicken breast, almond milk, rice, and sugar, reserved for the sick and delicate.
When I had dressed a badly wounded man and the fever had left him, I still needed to build up his strength. For such cases I had blancmange prepared: we pound the breast of a boiled capon until it is as fine as porridge, moisten it with almond milk and rice flour, and sweeten it gently. This white, soft food the patient swallows without effort and gradually regains his vigor. For I dressed his wounds, but it was God, and good food, that healed him.
- •Breast of boiled capon — one (protein base)
- •Almond milk — two cups (nourishing liquid)
- •Rice flour — a spoonful (thickener)
- •Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- •Rosewater — a few drops (flavoring)
- •Blanched almonds — a few (decoration)
Blancmange of capon for convalescents
A delicate white cream of pounded chicken breast, almond milk, rice, and sugar, reserved for the sick and delicate.
Why this dish? As a surgeon, Paré knew that healing was not only with the scalpel: the wounded and operated needed to be restored. Blancmange—pounded chicken breast, almond milk, and sugar—was THE dish given to the sick and weak, mild, white, easy to swallow. A dish that mirrored his more humane medicine.
When I had dressed a badly wounded man and the fever had left him, I still needed to build up his strength. For such cases I had blancmange prepared: we pound the breast of a boiled capon until it is as fine as porridge, moisten it with almond milk and rice flour, and sweeten it gently. This white, soft food the patient swallows without effort and gradually regains his vigor. For I dressed his wounds, but it was God, and good food, that healed him.
Ingredients (period version)
- Breast of boiled capon — one (protein base)
- Almond milk — two cups (nourishing liquid)
- Rice flour — a spoonful (thickener)
- Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- Rosewater — a few drops (flavoring)
- Blanched almonds — a few (decoration)
Ingredients
- Poached chicken breast — 1 (about 150 g) (protein base)
- Unsweetened almond milk — 300 ml (nourishing liquid)
- Rice flour — 1 tablespoon (thickener)
- Sugar — 2 tablespoons (sweetness)
- Rosewater — 3 drops (optional) (flavoring)
- Toasted slivered almonds — 1 handful (decoration)
Method
- Shred then pound (or blend) the poached chicken breast until very fine.
- Dissolve the rice flour in a little cold almond milk.
- Heat the remaining almond milk with sugar, add the pounded chicken and the dissolved rice flour.
- Cook over low heat, stirring, until creamy and thick, without boiling.
- Flavor with a drop of rosewater, plate, and sprinkle with toasted almonds.
How it was made : Medieval and Renaissance blancmange was savory-sweet, based on poultry and almonds (not the modern milk dessert). Physicians and cooks prescribed it to the sick for its whiteness, mildness, and digestibility, according to humoral theory.
The contemporary twist : Serve in a smooth verrine, topped with caramelized almonds and a veil of rosewater, in an 'apothecary's kitchen' style.
Sources : Le Viandier de Taillevent · Platine, De honesta voluptate
Ambroise Paré · Charactorium
