Whole fruits candied in a clear syrup, pungent with a mustard essence that awakens the palate. Sweet and burning at once, this preserved condiment makes boiled meat sing.

Why this dish? Mostarda is the preserved glory of Cremona, Ponchielli's city. Jars of whole fruits, brilliant like precious stones, that last through winter and accompany marubini and Christmas bolliti on Cremonese tables.

Ah, the mostarda! Do not be fooled by its confectionery shine: it bites. In Cremona, we candy whole fruits — cherry, pear, quince, fig, green melon — in a syrup that we warm each day, gently, like repeating a cadence until it sounds right. Then comes the mustard essence, just a few drops, that makes the eyes water and the tongue sing. We keep it all winter in jars, and on feast days, it accompanies the boiled meats: sweet and fire, sour and sugar, the whole opera in a spoonful.

How it was made : Born from the medieval and Renaissance art of preserving fruits in sugar, Cremona's mostarda is distinguished by mustard essence (mostum ardens, 'burning must'). In the 19th century, it was a precious preserved condiment, served with festive boiled meats. Handling mustard essence required caution: its vapors are strongly pungent.

The contemporary twist : A single candied fruit, glistening, placed on a slice of grana, as a sweet-pungent contrast appetizer bite.

Sources : Tradition of mostarda di Cremona · Pellegrino Artusi, La scienza in cucina (1891)

Amilcare Ponchielli · Charactorium