flipSalt beef bagel from Camden
Salt beef bagel from Camden
Why this dish? Amy lived and partied in Camden, a stone's throw from the northeast London beigel bakeries (Brick Lane) open all night. The salt beef bagel is the legendary late-night snack of London Jews and non-Jews alike: exactly the kind of food you wolf down after a gig.
A dense, shiny bagel split in half, filled with thick slices of meltingly tender salt beef, a generous smear of sharp English mustard, and dill pickles. Eaten with the fingers.
In Camden, at stupid o'clock, when you've finished singing and your legs feel like jelly, you go get your salt beef bagel. You want it hot, the beef falling apart in shreds, and you load on the English mustard — the kind that goes straight up your nose and makes you cry, the real stuff. A sour pickle on the side to cut the fat, and that's it. No fork, no fuss: you bite into it in the street, and it's the best thing in the world right then.
- •Brined beef brisket (salt beef / corned beef) — 1 piece (star filling)
- •Bagels — as needed (bread base)
- •English mustard — generous (heat)
- •Dill pickles — as desired (acidity, contrast)
Salt beef bagel from Camden
A dense, shiny bagel split in half, filled with thick slices of meltingly tender salt beef, a generous smear of sharp English mustard, and dill pickles. Eaten with the fingers.
Why this dish? Amy lived and partied in Camden, a stone's throw from the northeast London beigel bakeries (Brick Lane) open all night. The salt beef bagel is the legendary late-night snack of London Jews and non-Jews alike: exactly the kind of food you wolf down after a gig.
In Camden, at stupid o'clock, when you've finished singing and your legs feel like jelly, you go get your salt beef bagel. You want it hot, the beef falling apart in shreds, and you load on the English mustard — the kind that goes straight up your nose and makes you cry, the real stuff. A sour pickle on the side to cut the fat, and that's it. No fork, no fuss: you bite into it in the street, and it's the best thing in the world right then.
Ingredients (period version)
- Brined beef brisket (salt beef / corned beef) — 1 piece (star filling)
- Bagels — as needed (bread base)
- English mustard — generous (heat)
- Dill pickles — as desired (acidity, contrast)
Ingredients
- Cooked salt beef (or pastrami if unavailable) — 400 g (filling)
- Plain bagels — 4 (base)
- English mustard (e.g., Colman's) — 4 tsp (heat)
- Dill pickles — 8 slices + 4 whole (acidity)
- Butter or a little broth — a splash (reheat meat)
Method
- Gently reheat the salt beef slices in steam or a little broth to keep them moist (never dry).
- Split the bagels and lightly toast the cut sides.
- Spread generously with English mustard on the bottom half.
- Pile on a large portion of hot beef (the meat should overflow).
- Add a few pickle slices, close, and press.
- Serve immediately with a whole pickle on the side.
How it was made : Salt beef is the Anglo-Jewish version of Central European corned beef: a beef brisket brined for several days in spiced brine, then poached for hours. Brought by Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe to London's East End around the turn of the 20th century, it became an iconic street food of delis and beigel shops, including the famous 24-hour bakery on Brick Lane.
The contemporary twist : 'After-show' version: a dash of pickle juice mixed into the mustard to make it whipped and tangy, like a quick sauce.
Sources : Claudia Roden, The Book of Jewish Food (1996) · Evelyn Rose, The Complete International Jewish Cookbook
Amy Winehouse · Charactorium
