Cotignac of Fréchines Quinces
A firm, translucent fruit paste made from quinces and sugar long reduced, cut into diamond shapes. Tart and fragrant, it kept all winter in the larder.
A firm, translucent fruit paste made from quinces and sugar long reduced, cut into diamond shapes. Tart and fragrant, it kept all winter in the larder.
See how nothing is lost from the fruit of my orchard. The autumn quinces, hard and astringent raw, I cook them until they yield their jelly, then reduce them with sugar in turn, watching the matter thicken and take on this beautiful amber color. You pour it, dry it, cut it into diamonds. Thus preserved, this cotignac lasts the whole winter: a patient transformation, and how instructive, of the substance of the fruit.
- •Ripe quinces — a good quantity (base fruit)
- •Sugar — equal weight to pulp (preservation and binder)
- •Water — to cover (first cooking)
Cotignac of Fréchines Quinces
A firm, translucent fruit paste made from quinces and sugar long reduced, cut into diamond shapes. Tart and fragrant, it kept all winter in the larder.
Why this dish? Lavoisier's estate at Fréchines lies at the gates of Orléanais, homeland of the famous cotignac. This quince paste, which kept for months, extends the spirit of his agronomic experiments: getting the best from a harvest and wasting nothing.
See how nothing is lost from the fruit of my orchard. The autumn quinces, hard and astringent raw, I cook them until they yield their jelly, then reduce them with sugar in turn, watching the matter thicken and take on this beautiful amber color. You pour it, dry it, cut it into diamonds. Thus preserved, this cotignac lasts the whole winter: a patient transformation, and how instructive, of the substance of the fruit.
Ingredients (period version)
- Ripe quinces — a good quantity (base fruit)
- Sugar — equal weight to pulp (preservation and binder)
- Water — to cover (first cooking)
Ingredients
- Quinces — 1 kg (base fruit)
- Sugar — 650 to 750 g (weight of pulp) (preservation and binder)
- Lemon juice — 1 tbsp (brightness and set)
Method
- Rub, peel, and cut the quinces; cook them in water until very tender (40 min).
- Drain and pass the flesh through a sieve or blend to a smooth purée.
- Weigh the purée, add an equal weight of sugar (or slightly less) and the lemon juice.
- Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for 30 to 45 minutes until the paste pulls away from the pan bottom.
- Spread 1.5 cm thick on an oiled dish or sheet, let dry 24 to 48 hours.
- Cut into diamonds and optionally roll in sugar; store in an airtight container.
How it was made : The cotignac d'Orléans, a quince paste sold in round spruce boxes, was a renowned confectionery since the Middle Ages and offered to passing kings. In the 18th century, 'dry' preserves appeared at dessert and stocked the larders of great houses, where they kept long thanks to sugar.
The contemporary twist : Cut perfectly equal diamonds using a ruler and present them aligned on a slate board: the geometry of the balance, even in sweetness.
Sources : Menon, La Cuisinière bourgeoise, 1746 · Nicolas de Bonnefons, Les Délices de la campagne, 1654
Antoine de Lavoisier · Charactorium
