flipPiccalilli from the Cupboard
Piccalilli from the Cupboard
Why this dish? The bright yellow pickle that lurks in every British cupboard: a preserving condiment that livens up a cold sandwich or a hunk of cheese eaten in a hideout. For someone living on the margins and stocking what keeps, it's the ally of improvised meals.
A marinade of crunchy vegetables (cauliflower, onion, gherkin) in a turmeric-mustard sauce, tangy and spicy. Electric yellow, it bites and revives everything.
There's always a jar of this fluorescent yellow stuff at the back of the cupboard, older than half my works. It's ugly, it's sour enough to make you wince, and that's exactly why I love it. A spoonful on cheese and stale bread, and your pauper's meal becomes almost a party. The colour? Turmeric — the only thing more flashy than a tag on a white wall.
- •Cauliflower — a few florets (main crunch)
- •Small onions — a handful (bite)
- •Cucumber or gherkin — 1 (freshness)
- •Salt — for drawing out water (water extraction, preservation)
- •Vinegar — enough (preserving acidity)
- •Mustard powder — generously (heat)
- •Turmeric — 1 tsp (colour and signature)
- •Sugar — a little (sweet-sour balance)
- •Flour — a little (sauce thickener)
Piccalilli from the Cupboard
A marinade of crunchy vegetables (cauliflower, onion, gherkin) in a turmeric-mustard sauce, tangy and spicy. Electric yellow, it bites and revives everything.
Why this dish? The bright yellow pickle that lurks in every British cupboard: a preserving condiment that livens up a cold sandwich or a hunk of cheese eaten in a hideout. For someone living on the margins and stocking what keeps, it's the ally of improvised meals.
There's always a jar of this fluorescent yellow stuff at the back of the cupboard, older than half my works. It's ugly, it's sour enough to make you wince, and that's exactly why I love it. A spoonful on cheese and stale bread, and your pauper's meal becomes almost a party. The colour? Turmeric — the only thing more flashy than a tag on a white wall.
Ingredients (period version)
- Cauliflower — a few florets (main crunch)
- Small onions — a handful (bite)
- Cucumber or gherkin — 1 (freshness)
- Salt — for drawing out water (water extraction, preservation)
- Vinegar — enough (preserving acidity)
- Mustard powder — generously (heat)
- Turmeric — 1 tsp (colour and signature)
- Sugar — a little (sweet-sour balance)
- Flour — a little (sauce thickener)
Ingredients
- Cauliflower — 300 g in small florets (main crunch)
- Pearl onions — 150 g (bite)
- Cucumber — 1 small, diced (freshness)
- Coarse salt — 30 g (drawing out water)
- White or malt vinegar — 400 ml (preserving acidity)
- Mustard powder — 2 tbsp (heat)
- Turmeric — 1 tsp (colour and signature)
- Sugar — 80 g (sweet-sour balance)
- Flour or cornstarch — 2 tbsp (thickener)
Method
- Cut all vegetables into small pieces, sprinkle with salt and let drain overnight.
- Rinse and drain the vegetables well.
- Heat the vinegar with the sugar.
- Mix mustard powder, turmeric and flour in a little cold vinegar, then whisk into the hot vinegar until thickened.
- Add the drained vegetables and cook for 2-3 minutes to keep them crunchy.
- Pack into hot sterilised jars, seal and let mature for at least 2-4 weeks before eating.
How it was made : Piccalilli, an English pickle inspired by Indian achars brought back by colonial trade from the 18th century, is a classic of home preservation. These pickles were made in autumn to last through winter, the vinegar and salt ensuring long keeping without refrigeration.
The contemporary twist : Label the jar with a spoof museum logo, and serve it in a revamped 'ploughman's': cheese, bread and a dollop of piccalilli arranged stencil-style.
Banksy · Charactorium
