Piccalilli (mustard vegetable pickles)
A pickle of crunchy vegetables (cauliflower, onion, cucumber) in a yellow vinegar sauce with mustard and turmeric. Sour, spicy, sharp: the quintessential British condiment.
A pickle of crunchy vegetables (cauliflower, onion, cucumber) in a yellow vinegar sauce with mustard and turmeric. Sour, spicy, sharp: the quintessential British condiment.
At home, we never threw away a vegetable: what was left from the garden ended up in a jar, and piccalilli was the finest proof. That bright yellow came from turmeric and mustard, and the vinegar kept it all good for months. A spoonful next to a slice of cheese and a crust of bread, and you had a meal — modest, certainly, but that sharpness made it interesting. I recommend it for evenings when you come home late from the lab.
- •Cauliflower — in small florets (main crunch)
- •Small onions and cucumber — diced (variety of textures)
- •Coarse salt — for salting (draw out moisture)
- •Vinegar — to cover (acidity and preservation)
- •Mustard powder and turmeric — generously (colour and heat)
- •Flour and sugar — a little (thickener and balance)
Piccalilli (mustard vegetable pickles)
A pickle of crunchy vegetables (cauliflower, onion, cucumber) in a yellow vinegar sauce with mustard and turmeric. Sour, spicy, sharp: the quintessential British condiment.
Why this dish? In an England where nothing was wasted, piccalilli allowed garden vegetables to be preserved from one season to the next. On a college table, this bright yellow condiment accompanied Sunday cold cuts and cheese — a burst of flavour in the austerity of rationing.
At home, we never threw away a vegetable: what was left from the garden ended up in a jar, and piccalilli was the finest proof. That bright yellow came from turmeric and mustard, and the vinegar kept it all good for months. A spoonful next to a slice of cheese and a crust of bread, and you had a meal — modest, certainly, but that sharpness made it interesting. I recommend it for evenings when you come home late from the lab.
Ingredients (period version)
- Cauliflower — in small florets (main crunch)
- Small onions and cucumber — diced (variety of textures)
- Coarse salt — for salting (draw out moisture)
- Vinegar — to cover (acidity and preservation)
- Mustard powder and turmeric — generously (colour and heat)
- Flour and sugar — a little (thickener and balance)
Ingredients
- Cauliflower — 1/2, in small florets (crunch)
- Pickling onions — 150 g (texture)
- Cucumber — 1/2, diced (freshness)
- Coarse salt — 2 tbsp (draw out moisture)
- Cider or white vinegar — 400 ml (acidity)
- English mustard powder — 2 tbsp (signature heat)
- Turmeric — 1 tsp (yellow colour)
- Sugar — 3 tbsp (balance)
- Flour (or cornstarch) — 2 tbsp (sauce thickener)
Method
- Salt the cut vegetables and let them stand for 12 h, then rinse well and drain.
- Heat most of the vinegar with the sugar.
- Blend flour, mustard, and turmeric with the remaining cold vinegar, then whisk into the hot vinegar until thickened.
- Add the drained vegetables and cook for 2 to 3 min: they must remain crunchy.
- Pack into sterilised jars, seal, and let mature at least 2 weeks before eating.
How it was made : Piccalilli, inspired by Indian pickles brought back by the Empire, is attested in England since the 18th century. During the wars and rationing, it enjoyed a revival: preserving garden surplus was a patriotic duty (the 'Dig for Victory' campaign).
The contemporary twist : A spoonful on a modern ploughman's lunch (cheese, bread, apple): piccalilli remains the timeless companion of British cheese boards.
Maurice Wilkins · Charactorium