Lenticula — Legionary's Lentils with Garum
A pot of tender lentils bound with garum and the tang of vinegar, spiked with coriander and leek, just as they simmered in the cauldrons of the Empire's camps.
A pot of tender lentils bound with garum and the tang of vinegar, spiked with coriander and leek, just as they simmered in the cauldrons of the Empire's camps.
What do you think an emperor should eat, wrapped in purple and gold? I, Antoninus, squat by the fire with my legions and hold out my mess tin like the last standard-bearer. We throw lentils into the water, pour in the garum, a dash of vinegar, leek cut short—and eat the same bread as the soldier. That is why my men follow me: I do not spurn their bowl, I demand it.
- •Lentils (lenticula) — a good measure (nourishing base)
- •Garum — a few dashes (salt and umami)
- •Wine vinegar (acetum) — a splash (bright acidity)
- •Leek — as much as you like (aromatic)
- •Fresh coriander and seeds — a pinch (fragrance)
- •Olive oil — a drizzle (binding)
- •Honey — a spoonful (balances the acid)
Lenticula — Legionary's Lentils with Garum
A pot of tender lentils bound with garum and the tang of vinegar, spiked with coriander and leek, just as they simmered in the cauldrons of the Empire's camps.
Why this dish? On campaign, Caracalla made a show of eating like his legionaries: lentils, bacon, and marching bread shared around the fire to forge his image as the soldier-emperor. Lentils, cheap and nourishing, were the staple of the Roman army's mess tin.
What do you think an emperor should eat, wrapped in purple and gold? I, Antoninus, squat by the fire with my legions and hold out my mess tin like the last standard-bearer. We throw lentils into the water, pour in the garum, a dash of vinegar, leek cut short—and eat the same bread as the soldier. That is why my men follow me: I do not spurn their bowl, I demand it.
Ingredients (period version)
- Lentils (lenticula) — a good measure (nourishing base)
- Garum — a few dashes (salt and umami)
- Wine vinegar (acetum) — a splash (bright acidity)
- Leek — as much as you like (aromatic)
- Fresh coriander and seeds — a pinch (fragrance)
- Olive oil — a drizzle (binding)
- Honey — a spoonful (balances the acid)
Ingredients
- Green or brown lentils — 250 g (base)
- Fish sauce (garum or nuoc-mam) — 2 tbsp (salt and umami)
- Red wine vinegar — 1 tbsp (acidity)
- Sliced leek — 1 (aromatic)
- Coriander (fresh + 1 tsp seeds) — 1 small bunch (fragrance)
- Olive oil — 3 tbsp (binding)
- Honey — 1 tsp (roundness)
Method
- Rinse the lentils and cover with cold water (do not salt or the skins will toughen).
- Bring to a simmer, add the sliced leek and coriander seeds, and cook 25–30 minutes until tender.
- At the end of cooking, stir in the garum, vinegar, honey, and olive oil; let reduce 5 minutes.
- Taste and adjust the salt-acid balance. Sprinkle with fresh coriander just before serving.
How it was made : Apicius gives a recipe for lentils (lenticula) bound with garum, vinegar, and honey, sometimes enriched with chestnuts. In the army, legumes formed a major part of the ration, supplemented with bread and a little bacon.
The contemporary twist : Serve in a tin mess tin with a slice of grilled bread: the “soldier-emperor’s mess tin,” with extra garum on the side so each person can dose their own umami.
Sources : Apicius, De re coquinaria, book V (legumina) · Cato, De agricultura
Caracalla · Charactorium