flipCreamed Fresh Peas
Creamed Fresh Peas
Why this dish? During the years of reconquest and wandering between Chinon, Bourges, and Mehun-sur-Yèvre, a king also had to eat simply. This pea pottage bound with almond milk and egg yolks, dotted with small pieces of poultry, is everyday court cuisine.
A creamy purée of fresh peas, enriched with almond milk and bound with egg yolks, gilded with saffron and scented with ginger, with bits of poultry. Comforting, savory, deep.
You think a king eats only golden pheasants? Think again: on ordinary days, when I held council at Bourges and war emptied my coffers, this pea pottage satisfied me well. The fresh peas were crushed, bound with almond milk and egg yolks, and saffron gave it that golden robe I loved. Pour it hot, add a few bits of hen, and you'll have enough to sustain a long day's ride. Sobriety, you see, also befits the crown.
- •Fresh shelled peas — full bowl (base of the pottage)
- •Almond milk — enough (creamy binder (lean day))
- •Egg yolks — two or three (binder (fat day))
- •Saffron — a few threads (golden color and fragrance)
- •Ginger — pinch (spice)
- •Poultry meat — a few pieces (garnish)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Creamed Fresh Peas
A creamy purée of fresh peas, enriched with almond milk and bound with egg yolks, gilded with saffron and scented with ginger, with bits of poultry. Comforting, savory, deep.
Why this dish? During the years of reconquest and wandering between Chinon, Bourges, and Mehun-sur-Yèvre, a king also had to eat simply. This pea pottage bound with almond milk and egg yolks, dotted with small pieces of poultry, is everyday court cuisine.
You think a king eats only golden pheasants? Think again: on ordinary days, when I held council at Bourges and war emptied my coffers, this pea pottage satisfied me well. The fresh peas were crushed, bound with almond milk and egg yolks, and saffron gave it that golden robe I loved. Pour it hot, add a few bits of hen, and you'll have enough to sustain a long day's ride. Sobriety, you see, also befits the crown.
Ingredients (period version)
- Fresh shelled peas — full bowl (base of the pottage)
- Almond milk — enough (creamy binder (lean day))
- Egg yolks — two or three (binder (fat day))
- Saffron — a few threads (golden color and fragrance)
- Ginger — pinch (spice)
- Poultry meat — a few pieces (garnish)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Fresh or frozen peas — 500 g (base)
- Unsweetened almond milk — 400 ml (binder)
- Egg yolks — 2 (final binder)
- Saffron — 1 pinch (color and fragrance)
- Ground ginger — 1/4 teaspoon (spice)
- Cooked chicken breast — 100 g (diced garnish)
- Salt — 1/2 teaspoon (seasoning)
Method
- Cook the peas in salted water until tender; reserve a few whole for garnish.
- Blend the remaining peas with a little almond milk to a smooth purée.
- Return to the pan, add the rest of the almond milk, saffron, and ginger; heat gently.
- Off the heat (do not boil), whisk in the beaten egg yolks to bind.
- Add the diced chicken and whole peas, adjust salt, and serve hot.
How it was made : The creamed dish (cretonnée) is described in the *Ménagier de Paris*: vegetables (peas or broad beans) were bound with almond milk on lean days, or with egg yolks and milk on fat days, all colored with saffron. Saffron, imported, colored and signaled the wealth even of a humble dish.
The contemporary twist : Serve in small handled cups as an appetizer velouté, with a drop of oil and three crunchy peas on top.
Sources : Le Ménagier de Paris (vers 1393)
Charles VII · Charactorium
