flipLake Pike Poached in Verjuice and Herbs
Lake Pike Poached in Verjuice and Herbs
Why this dish? The Lady rules beneath the waters of an enchanted lake: freshwater fish — pike, perch, eel — is the very food of her domain. At the heart of a fairy feast in the submerged halls of her palace, this great poached pike is the dish of honor, the one shared on festive evenings.
A whole pike gently poached in a herb court-bouillon, sharpened with tangy verjuice: the firm and delicate flesh of the king of lakes, served as at great medieval tables.
See this pike, lord: it is the prince of my waters, and none fish it without my permission. My maidens slide it into a broth of shore herbs and baste it with verjuice, that green grape juice that pricks the tongue and awakens the flesh. It is brought whole to the table, adorned like a knight in his silver hauberk. Beware the smallest bone: that is the only danger my dwelling holds.
- •Whole lake pike — a fine fish (dish of honor)
- •Verjuice (green grape juice) — a good splash (lively acidity)
- •Parsley, lovage, wild chervil — a bunch (court-bouillon perfume)
- •Leeks and onions — a few (aromatic base)
- •Salt and long pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Lake Pike Poached in Verjuice and Herbs
A whole pike gently poached in a herb court-bouillon, sharpened with tangy verjuice: the firm and delicate flesh of the king of lakes, served as at great medieval tables.
Why this dish? The Lady rules beneath the waters of an enchanted lake: freshwater fish — pike, perch, eel — is the very food of her domain. At the heart of a fairy feast in the submerged halls of her palace, this great poached pike is the dish of honor, the one shared on festive evenings.
See this pike, lord: it is the prince of my waters, and none fish it without my permission. My maidens slide it into a broth of shore herbs and baste it with verjuice, that green grape juice that pricks the tongue and awakens the flesh. It is brought whole to the table, adorned like a knight in his silver hauberk. Beware the smallest bone: that is the only danger my dwelling holds.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole lake pike — a fine fish (dish of honor)
- Verjuice (green grape juice) — a good splash (lively acidity)
- Parsley, lovage, wild chervil — a bunch (court-bouillon perfume)
- Leeks and onions — a few (aromatic base)
- Salt and long pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Whole pike (or zander), gutted — 1.2 kg (main fish)
- Verjuice (or lemon juice + water if unavailable) — 10 cl (acidity)
- Flat-leaf parsley + lovage (or celery stalks) — 1 bunch (aromatic herbs)
- Leek — 1 (court-bouillon)
- Onion studded with 2 cloves — 1 (court-bouillon)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Prepare a court-bouillon: cover the sliced leek, clove-studded onion, half the herbs, and salt with water; let simmer for 20 minutes.
- Add the verjuice, then gently slide the whole pike into the barely simmering liquid (never boiling).
- Poach for 18 to 25 minutes depending on size: the flesh should easily separate from the central bone.
- Carefully remove the fish, arrange it on a platter, sprinkle with the remaining fresh herbs and drizzle with a little strained broth and a dash of verjuice.
How it was made : Freshwater fish was central in the Middle Ages, especially on "lean" days imposed by the Church (Fridays, Lent). Large estates had their own fishponds and stews. Verjuice, ubiquitous in medieval cuisine before lemons became widespread, provided acidity; long pepper, older than round pepper in Europe, seasoned noble dishes.
The contemporary twist : Present the pike on a bed of watercress "reeds" and coat with an emulsion of verjuice and oil, a veil of edible mist (liquid nitrogen or simply aromatic water vapor) to evoke the enchanted lake.
Lady of the Lake · Charactorium
