flipSalted Herring Siberian-Style, Onion and Rye
Salted Herring Siberian-Style, Onion and Rye
Why this dish? Smoked or salted fish was Mendeleev's daily fare. Born in Tobolsk in western Siberia, he grew up in a region where salted river fish and preserved herring were the basic protein, eaten as zakuska before the meal, on black bread with onion.
Desalted herring fillets, glistening with oil, laid on onion rings and served with warm potatoes and rye bread. Straightforward, salty, iodized: the quintessence of Russian zakuska.
In Siberia, where I come from, we do not joke about provisions: fish is salted to last the winter. A desalted herring fillet, a few rings of raw onion, a slice of rye bread underneath — that is enough to start a meal, or to make the whole meal on busy days. Pour a little oil on top, and let the salt and onion bite as they should: it is rough and honest, like our country.
- •Whole salted herring in brine — one or two (preserved fish)
- •Onion — one (raw bite)
- •Oil (sunflower — see note) — a drizzle (binder)
- •Black rye bread — slices (base)
- •Dill — a little (fragrance)
Salted Herring Siberian-Style, Onion and Rye
Desalted herring fillets, glistening with oil, laid on onion rings and served with warm potatoes and rye bread. Straightforward, salty, iodized: the quintessence of Russian zakuska.
Why this dish? Smoked or salted fish was Mendeleev's daily fare. Born in Tobolsk in western Siberia, he grew up in a region where salted river fish and preserved herring were the basic protein, eaten as zakuska before the meal, on black bread with onion.
In Siberia, where I come from, we do not joke about provisions: fish is salted to last the winter. A desalted herring fillet, a few rings of raw onion, a slice of rye bread underneath — that is enough to start a meal, or to make the whole meal on busy days. Pour a little oil on top, and let the salt and onion bite as they should: it is rough and honest, like our country.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole salted herring in brine — one or two (preserved fish)
- Onion — one (raw bite)
- Oil (sunflower — see note) — a drizzle (binder)
- Black rye bread — slices (base)
- Dill — a little (fragrance)
Ingredients
- Salted herring fillets (or matjes) — 2 (200 g) (preserved fish)
- Red or sweet onion — 1 (raw bite)
- Neutral or sunflower oil — 2 tbsp (binder)
- Potatoes — 4 small, steamed (warm accompaniment)
- Rye bread — 4 slices (base)
- Fresh dill — a few sprigs (fragrance)
Method
- If the herring is very salty, soak it in cold water (or a little milk) for 1-2 hours, then pat dry.
- Slice the fillets on the bias into regular pieces, remove any remaining bones.
- Slice the onion into thin rings; steam the potatoes and keep them warm.
- Arrange the herring on the onions, drizzle with oil, sprinkle with dill, and let marinate for 15 minutes.
- Serve as zakuska on rye bread, with the warm potatoes on the side.
How it was made : Salting and smoking were the only ways to preserve fish out of season in 19th-century Russia: barrels of brine were filled in autumn. The zakuska table — covered with small salted items, pickles, and fish — preceded any formal meal and accompanied vodka.
The contemporary twist : Roll each piece of herring around a dice of potato and an onion ring, skewered with a toothpick: a 'molecule bite' to serve as an appetizer. (Note: potato being New World, keep it for the modern version only.)
Dmitri Mendeleev · Charactorium
