Store-Room Mango Chutney
A savory-spicy jam of green mangoes simmered with sugar, vinegar, ginger, and spices: a condiment that keeps well and enlivens the most austere camp dishes.
A savory-spicy jam of green mangoes simmered with sugar, vinegar, ginger, and spices: a condiment that keeps well and enlivens the most austere camp dishes.
When one leaves all towns behind for weeks, one must take along something to make the monotonous bearable. This chutney, my people prepared in large quantity at mango season, and we carried it in sealed pots. A spoonful on cold beef or a biscuit, and behold a bivouac meal regains some dignity. Sweet, tangy, spirited: it keeps for months and never disappoints. I never broke camp without a few pots in my baggage, believe me.
- •Green mangoes — several (fruity base)
- •Cane sugar — equal parts (preservation and sweetness)
- •Vinegar — a glass (acidity and preservation)
- •Fresh ginger — a piece (pungency)
- •Spices (clove, cinnamon, mustard seeds, pepper) — to taste (aroma)
- •Salt — a pinch (balance, preservation)
Store-Room Mango Chutney
A savory-spicy jam of green mangoes simmered with sugar, vinegar, ginger, and spices: a condiment that keeps well and enlivens the most austere camp dishes.
Why this dish? To get through regions where fresh supplies were scarce, a Survey officer's household laid in stores of condiments that would keep for months. Mango chutney, sweet-spicy, accompanied cold meats and camp biscuits as well as dinners in Dehra Dun.
When one leaves all towns behind for weeks, one must take along something to make the monotonous bearable. This chutney, my people prepared in large quantity at mango season, and we carried it in sealed pots. A spoonful on cold beef or a biscuit, and behold a bivouac meal regains some dignity. Sweet, tangy, spirited: it keeps for months and never disappoints. I never broke camp without a few pots in my baggage, believe me.
Ingredients (period version)
- Green mangoes — several (fruity base)
- Cane sugar — equal parts (preservation and sweetness)
- Vinegar — a glass (acidity and preservation)
- Fresh ginger — a piece (pungency)
- Spices (clove, cinnamon, mustard seeds, pepper) — to taste (aroma)
- Salt — a pinch (balance, preservation)
Ingredients
- Firm mangoes (underripe) — 600 g (base)
- Brown sugar — 250 g (sweetness and preservation)
- Cider vinegar — 150 ml (acidity)
- Fresh grated ginger — 30 g (warm pungency)
- Mustard seeds — 1 tsp (spice)
- Cinnamon and clove — 1 stick + 3 (warm aroma)
- Salt — 1 tsp (balance)
Method
- Peel the mangoes and cut into small dice.
- In a saucepan, combine vinegar, sugar, ginger, and spices; bring to a simmer.
- Add the mango dice and salt.
- Simmer gently for 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring, until thick and syrupy.
- Remove the cinnamon stick and cloves.
- Pour hot into sterilized jars, seal immediately, and invert to create a vacuum.
How it was made : Chutney (from Hindi 'chatni') was one of the great treasures brought back by the British from India. Preserved in sugar and vinegar, it kept for months without refrigeration — invaluable for camp life. The famous commercial 'Major Grey's chutney' was born from this tradition.
The contemporary twist : Serve it with aged cheese and toast: the sweet-spicy marriage that was all the rage in colonial clubs still works on today's appetizer board.
George Everest · Charactorium