flipWhite Soup (almond potage)
White Soup (almond potage)
Why this dish? In Pride and Prejudice, young Bingley declares he will send his invitations to the Netherfield ball "as soon as Nicholls has made enough white soup." This creamy soup was THE marker of a successful grand ball in Jane Austen's world: it was served late to revive the dancers.
A pale, silky velouté, thickened with ground almonds, cream and egg yolk, built on a rich veal broth. Discreet and refined, it is the soup of elegant evenings that Jane describes in her novels.
You may think me frivolous, but I hold that a ball without white soup is merely a gathering of people who are bored standing up. At home, we would simmer the knuckle of veal for a whole morning, then mix in the almonds pounded in a mortar until they became like milk; and the egg yolk, my friends, you NEVER add it over a high flame, lest it curdle and spoil the work. Served piping hot to exhausted dancers, it is worth all the compliments of a gentleman.
- •Knuckle of veal and marrow bone — a good piece (rich broth)
- •Blanched sweet almonds, pounded — a good handful (thickening and flavor)
- •A few bitter almonds — a pinch (fragrance)
- •Stale breadcrumbs — as needed (thickener)
- •Fresh cream — a bowl (creaminess)
- •Egg yolks — two or three (final thickening)
- •Mace and white pepper — to taste (mild spices)
White Soup (almond potage)
A pale, silky velouté, thickened with ground almonds, cream and egg yolk, built on a rich veal broth. Discreet and refined, it is the soup of elegant evenings that Jane describes in her novels.
Why this dish? In Pride and Prejudice, young Bingley declares he will send his invitations to the Netherfield ball "as soon as Nicholls has made enough white soup." This creamy soup was THE marker of a successful grand ball in Jane Austen's world: it was served late to revive the dancers.
You may think me frivolous, but I hold that a ball without white soup is merely a gathering of people who are bored standing up. At home, we would simmer the knuckle of veal for a whole morning, then mix in the almonds pounded in a mortar until they became like milk; and the egg yolk, my friends, you NEVER add it over a high flame, lest it curdle and spoil the work. Served piping hot to exhausted dancers, it is worth all the compliments of a gentleman.
Ingredients (period version)
- Knuckle of veal and marrow bone — a good piece (rich broth)
- Blanched sweet almonds, pounded — a good handful (thickening and flavor)
- A few bitter almonds — a pinch (fragrance)
- Stale breadcrumbs — as needed (thickener)
- Fresh cream — a bowl (creaminess)
- Egg yolks — two or three (final thickening)
- Mace and white pepper — to taste (mild spices)
Ingredients
- Veal (or chicken) broth — 1.2 L (base)
- Ground almonds — 120 g (thickening and flavor)
- Bitter almond extract — 1 to 2 drops (fragrance (optional))
- Country breadcrumbs — 60 g (thickener)
- Heavy cream — 200 ml (creaminess)
- Egg yolks — 2 (final thickening)
- Mace (or nutmeg) and white pepper — to taste (mild spices)
Method
- Bring the veal broth to a simmer with the breadcrumbs, mace and white pepper; let infuse for 20 minutes.
- Add the ground almonds (and bitter almond extract) and cook for another 15 minutes over low heat.
- Blend finely, then pass through a fine sieve to obtain a perfectly smooth texture.
- Off the heat, whisk the cream with the egg yolks, then temper with a ladle of hot soup before pouring everything back into the pot.
- Reheat very gently without boiling, stirring, until the soup coats the spoon. Serve piping hot.
How it was made : Cookbooks of the time (notably Maria Rundell's, 1806) give white soup made from a strong veal and ham broth, thickened with ground almonds and cream. It was a time-consuming and costly dish, reserved for occasions when one wished to impress.
The contemporary twist : A drop of roasted almond oil and a few toasted flaked almonds on top, served in small cups as an aperitif — a nod to the Netherfield ball.
Sources : Jane Austen, Pride and Prejudice (1813) · Maria Eliza Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery (1806)
Jane Austen · Charactorium
