Little pies of Béziers
Small round pies in a golden crust, filled with a surprising mixture of mutton, kidney fat, brown sugar, and lemon zest: the sweet-and-savoury signature of Béziers, said to have been brought back from India by Lord Clive in the 18th century.
Small round pies in a golden crust, filled with a surprising mixture of mutton, kidney fat, brown sugar, and lemon zest: the sweet-and-savoury signature of Béziers, said to have been brought back from India by Lord Clive in the 18th century.
When you are from Béziers, you carry these little pies in your heart all your life. A strange marvel, isn't it, this mutton married with sugar and lemon — you think them savoury at first, and then they end sweet on the tongue. My mother made them on Sundays, standing upright like little golden barrels. Wherever the war has thrown me, that is what I see again: the table of the South, the smell of the oven, and a whole country I will not forget, even at the cost of my life.
- •Flour, water, lard — for the pastry (crust)
- •Mutton shoulder — a piece (filling)
- •Kidney fat (suet) — a portion (softness of the filling)
- •Brown sugar — generous (sweet note)
- •Lemon (zest) — one (signature flavor)
Little pies of Béziers
Small round pies in a golden crust, filled with a surprising mixture of mutton, kidney fat, brown sugar, and lemon zest: the sweet-and-savoury signature of Béziers, said to have been brought back from India by Lord Clive in the 18th century.
Why this dish? Moulin was born in Béziers, in the Hérault. This sweet-and-savoury specialty from his hometown — small pies filled with mutton, sugar, and lemon — is exactly the kind of regional treat a clandestine exile would long for, far from home, in the cold of London or the secrecy of Lyon.
When you are from Béziers, you carry these little pies in your heart all your life. A strange marvel, isn't it, this mutton married with sugar and lemon — you think them savoury at first, and then they end sweet on the tongue. My mother made them on Sundays, standing upright like little golden barrels. Wherever the war has thrown me, that is what I see again: the table of the South, the smell of the oven, and a whole country I will not forget, even at the cost of my life.
Ingredients (period version)
- Flour, water, lard — for the pastry (crust)
- Mutton shoulder — a piece (filling)
- Kidney fat (suet) — a portion (softness of the filling)
- Brown sugar — generous (sweet note)
- Lemon (zest) — one (signature flavor)
Ingredients
- Shortcrust pastry — 500 g (crust)
- Minced mutton or lamb — 300 g (filling)
- Beef fat/suet (or butter) — 80 g (softness)
- Brown sugar — 90 g (sweet note)
- Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon — 1 (signature flavor)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (balance)
- 1 egg yolk — for glazing (finish)
Method
- Chop the meat and fat, mix with brown sugar, lemon zest, salt, and pepper: the filling should remain sweet-savoury and well flavored.
- Line small pie molds (or tall rings) with pastry, fill with the mixture to form little barrels.
- Cover with a pastry lid, seal the edges, and pierce a steam hole on top.
- Glaze with egg yolk.
- Bake at 180°C for 35 to 40 minutes until the crust is golden brown. Serve warm.
How it was made : The little pie of Béziers is a long-attested specialty, whose tradition attributes its origin to the entourage of Robert Clive, British governor of India, who was taking a cure in the region in the 18th century — hence the sweet-spiced mutton filling, unusual in France. They were shaped by hand in small cylindrical molds.
The contemporary twist : Serve with a pinch of fleur de sel and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, to highlight the sweet-savoury contrast that many no longer expect.
Jean Moulin · Charactorium
