Kōura tunu me te pāua (Grilled lobster and Kāpiti abalone)
Lobster and abalone cooked directly on the embers, seasoned with natural sea salt and served on a bed of kelp. A dish of brutal simplicity that showcases the extraordinary freshness of the products of Cook Strait, consumed just steps from the shore.
Lobster and abalone cooked directly on the embers, seasoned with natural sea salt and served on a bed of kelp. A dish of brutal simplicity that showcases the extraordinary freshness of the products of Cook Strait, consumed just steps from the shore.
Listen well, stranger. At Kāpiti, the sea gives us what no land could offer. My divers bring back pāua from the rocks with bare hands, and the kōura come out of the harakeke pots before dawn. We throw them on the burning stones, nothing more — the sea has already done the seasoning. A chief who does not feed his warriors with the best kai moana does not deserve their taiaha in battle.
- •Kōura (rock lobster) — 2 whole, freshly caught (Main protein base)
- •Pāua (abalone) — 4 to 6 pieces (Second seafood)
- •Kelp (rimurimu) — Generous handful (Cooking bed and garnish)
- •Natural sea salt (tote) — A pinch, gathered from the rocks (Seasoning)
Kōura tunu me te pāua (Grilled lobster and Kāpiti abalone)
Lobster and abalone cooked directly on the embers, seasoned with natural sea salt and served on a bed of kelp. A dish of brutal simplicity that showcases the extraordinary freshness of the products of Cook Strait, consumed just steps from the shore.
Why this dish? Te Rauparaha established his fortress on Kāpiti Island, in the middle of Cook Strait, one of the most fish-rich areas of New Zealand. The lobsters (kōura) and abalones (pāua) from Kāpiti's reefs fed his warriors daily and were a strategic resource for his pā (fortified village).
Listen well, stranger. At Kāpiti, the sea gives us what no land could offer. My divers bring back pāua from the rocks with bare hands, and the kōura come out of the harakeke pots before dawn. We throw them on the burning stones, nothing more — the sea has already done the seasoning. A chief who does not feed his warriors with the best kai moana does not deserve their taiaha in battle.
Ingredients (period version)
- Kōura (rock lobster) — 2 whole, freshly caught (Main protein base)
- Pāua (abalone) — 4 to 6 pieces (Second seafood)
- Kelp (rimurimu) — Generous handful (Cooking bed and garnish)
- Natural sea salt (tote) — A pinch, gathered from the rocks (Seasoning)
Ingredients
- Lobster tails — 4 (about 200 g each) (Protein base)
- Abalones (or large whelks) — 300 g, cleaned and tenderized (Second seafood)
- Dried kombu seaweed — 2 leaves, rehydrated (Cooking bed)
- Fleur de sel — 1 teaspoon (Seasoning)
- Neutral oil — 1 tablespoon (For cooking)
Method
- Rehydrate the kombu leaves in cold water for 15 minutes, then drain.
- Split the lobster tails in half lengthwise, remove the intestinal vein.
- Tenderize the abalones by lightly beating them with a mallet, then slice into 5 mm medallions.
- Heat a cast-iron grill or barbecue to high heat.
- Brush the lobster flesh with a little oil. Place flesh-side down on the grill, cook for 4-5 minutes, then flip shell-side down for 3 minutes.
- Grill the abalone medallions for 1 to 2 minutes per side only (they toughen with overcooking).
- Arrange on the kombu leaves, sprinkle with fleur de sel. Serve immediately.
How it was made : The Māori cooked seafood directly on heated stones (tunu) at the water's edge or in small sand ovens. Pāua were sometimes eaten raw, sliced thin, or lightly grilled. Lobsters were cooked whole, turned on the embers. Kelp served as a plate, protection from direct heat, and a salty condiment.
The contemporary twist : Serve the pāua medallions in the half lobster shell, on a bed of seaweed, as an individual "beach platter."
Sources : Best, Elsdon. "Fishing Methods and Devices of the Maori", Dominion Museum Bulletin n° 12, Wellington, 1929. · Polack, Joel S. "New Zealand: Being a Narrative of Travels and Adventures", London, 1838.
Te Rauparaha · Charactorium
