flipCubbaita — Sesame, Almond and Honey Brittle
Cubbaita — Sesame, Almond and Honey Brittle
Why this dish? Thomas was born at Roccasecca Castle in the Kingdom of Sicily, heir to Arab-Norman gardens and kitchens. Cubbaita (from Arabic qubbayt), a hard nougat of honey, sesame, and almonds, belongs to this sweet Sicilian world; dry and durable, it was kept for the long study journeys of friars from Naples to Paris.
A crunchy slab of caramelized honey set with toasted sesame seeds and chopped almonds, perfumed with cinnamon and citrus zest. It is cut into diamonds that keep for weeks: sweet, golden, and crisp.
From my land of Sicily, beneath the gardens the Saracens once planted, comes this sweet that my nurse gave me as a child at Roccasecca. Melt the honey until it turns blond, throw in the toasted sesame and pounded almond, and stir constantly, for honey burns when neglected. Spread the hot paste on an oiled stone, cut it into diamonds before it hardens, and keep them: they sustain long roads and long fasts better than bread. Eat a piece, and remember that even the bitter labor of study deserves, sometimes, its share of honey.
- •Honey — a good measure (binder and sweetener)
- •Sesame seeds — two measures (crunch, base)
- •Almonds — one measure, chopped (richness)
- •Cinnamon — a pinch (flavoring)
- •Bitter orange or citron zest — a little (Sicilian citrus flavoring)
Cubbaita — Sesame, Almond and Honey Brittle
A crunchy slab of caramelized honey set with toasted sesame seeds and chopped almonds, perfumed with cinnamon and citrus zest. It is cut into diamonds that keep for weeks: sweet, golden, and crisp.
Why this dish? Thomas was born at Roccasecca Castle in the Kingdom of Sicily, heir to Arab-Norman gardens and kitchens. Cubbaita (from Arabic qubbayt), a hard nougat of honey, sesame, and almonds, belongs to this sweet Sicilian world; dry and durable, it was kept for the long study journeys of friars from Naples to Paris.
From my land of Sicily, beneath the gardens the Saracens once planted, comes this sweet that my nurse gave me as a child at Roccasecca. Melt the honey until it turns blond, throw in the toasted sesame and pounded almond, and stir constantly, for honey burns when neglected. Spread the hot paste on an oiled stone, cut it into diamonds before it hardens, and keep them: they sustain long roads and long fasts better than bread. Eat a piece, and remember that even the bitter labor of study deserves, sometimes, its share of honey.
Ingredients (period version)
- Honey — a good measure (binder and sweetener)
- Sesame seeds — two measures (crunch, base)
- Almonds — one measure, chopped (richness)
- Cinnamon — a pinch (flavoring)
- Bitter orange or citron zest — a little (Sicilian citrus flavoring)
Ingredients
- Honey — 200 g (binder)
- Sesame seeds — 150 g (crunchy base)
- Blanched chopped almonds — 100 g (richness)
- Ground cinnamon — 1/2 tsp (flavoring)
- Untreated orange zest — 1 (citrus flavoring)
- Neutral oil — for the work surface (non-stick)
Method
- Dry-toast the sesame seeds and chopped almonds in a pan until golden and fragrant; set aside.
- Heat the honey alone in a heavy-bottomed saucepan until it turns blond and becomes more liquid (approx. 120-130°C).
- Off the heat, quickly incorporate sesame, almonds, cinnamon, and zest; mix vigorously.
- Pour the hot mass onto an oiled sheet or parchment paper, spread to 1 cm with an oiled spatula.
- Mark diamonds with a knife while still warm.
- Let harden completely, break along the marks, and store away from humidity in an airtight container.
How it was made : Cubbaita (cubbàita, giuggiulena) descends from Arab confections introduced to Sicily: honey, sesame, and dried fruits cooked together form a hard nougat that keeps for a long time without refrigeration — hence its role as travel provisions and festive treat. Refined sugar, cultivated in Sicily since Arab times, and citrus fruits complete this sweet repertoire long before the arrival of New World products.
The contemporary twist : Cut into thin sticks and rolled in a cloud of dried orange zest; ideal to gift, wrapped in wax paper like a gourmet relic from Roccasecca.
Thomas Aquinas · Charactorium
