flipHerbed Walnut Paste of the Phasis
Herbed Walnut Paste of the Phasis
Why this dish? The wild walnut of the Caucasus is the discreet gold of Colchis, keeping all winter and nourishing the traveler. Pounded into a paste with salt and herbs, it accompanies the guardians of the sacred grove of Ares and the king's messengers on the roads of the Euxine Sea. It is the keeping cuisine of Aeëtes' kingdom, dense and durable.
A thick paste of pounded walnuts, bound with a little water and oil, seasoned with salt, garlic, and coriander, with the woody bitterness of the walnut on the first taste. Spread on barley bread, keeps for several days—the ancestor of Georgian walnut sauces.
When my men go to guard the Fleece in the grove of Ares, or carry my orders to the sea, they do not take a feast—they take this. We pound the walnut of my valleys until it releases its oil, we salt it, mix in garlic and coriander, and it keeps without spoiling. Bitter and rich, it keeps a man upright for days. It is the food of Aeëtes' faithful, those who watch while others sleep.
- •Walnut kernels — two handfuls (base)
- •Fresh garlic — one clove (kick)
- •Coriander seeds — a pinch (perfume)
- •Rock salt — to hand (preservation)
- •Water and a drizzle of oil — to bind (binding)
Herbed Walnut Paste of the Phasis
A thick paste of pounded walnuts, bound with a little water and oil, seasoned with salt, garlic, and coriander, with the woody bitterness of the walnut on the first taste. Spread on barley bread, keeps for several days—the ancestor of Georgian walnut sauces.
Why this dish? The wild walnut of the Caucasus is the discreet gold of Colchis, keeping all winter and nourishing the traveler. Pounded into a paste with salt and herbs, it accompanies the guardians of the sacred grove of Ares and the king's messengers on the roads of the Euxine Sea. It is the keeping cuisine of Aeëtes' kingdom, dense and durable.
When my men go to guard the Fleece in the grove of Ares, or carry my orders to the sea, they do not take a feast—they take this. We pound the walnut of my valleys until it releases its oil, we salt it, mix in garlic and coriander, and it keeps without spoiling. Bitter and rich, it keeps a man upright for days. It is the food of Aeëtes' faithful, those who watch while others sleep.
Ingredients (period version)
- Walnut kernels — two handfuls (base)
- Fresh garlic — one clove (kick)
- Coriander seeds — a pinch (perfume)
- Rock salt — to hand (preservation)
- Water and a drizzle of oil — to bind (binding)
Ingredients
- Walnut kernels — 200 g (base)
- Garlic — 1 clove (kick)
- Ground coriander + a little fresh coriander — 1 tsp + a few leaves (perfume)
- Salt — 1/2 tsp (preservation and taste)
- Warm water + olive oil — 50 ml + 1 tbsp (binding)
Method
- Pound (or blend) the walnuts with garlic, salt, and coriander until a fatty paste forms that begins to release its oil.
- Add the warm water little by little, working it in, to obtain a soft spreadable paste.
- Incorporate the olive oil and chopped fresh coriander.
- Taste and adjust salt: it should be bold, as it ensures preservation.
- Pack into a small pot, smooth the surface with a drizzle of oil, and keep cool. Serve on barley bread or as an accompaniment to meats.
How it was made : The walnut is native to the Caucasus and Persia—not a New World product—and provided from antiquity a fatty, durable food easy to transport. Pounded with salt, garlic, and herbs, the walnut yielded keeping pastes and sauces. It is the ancient matrix of the great Georgian walnut sauces (*bazhe*, *satsivi*), here evoked in its simplest and most ancient form.
The contemporary twist : Thin a spoonful of this paste with a little water and pomegranate juice to make a sauce for roasted vegetables—the 'king's table' version of the road condiment.
Aeëtes · Charactorium
