Hóngshāoròu (红烧肉) — caramelized braised pork
Cubes of pork belly long-braised in a syrup of caramelized sugar, soy sauce, and rice wine until lacquered, tender, and glossy.
Cubes of pork belly long-braised in a syrup of caramelized sugar, soy sauce, and rice wine until lacquered, tender, and glossy.
When friends fill the house, this is the dish I put in the center of the table. The secret is simple: let the sugar melt until it turns amber before laying in the meat — that caramel gives the red color and the shine. Then patience: the fire must be low, the lid on, and you wait. A good hóngshāoròu cannot be ordered, it must be earned; and when everyone reaches their chopsticks toward the same dish, I find we already understand each other better.
- •Pork belly with skin — a nice piece (heart of the dish)
- •Brown cane sugar — a handful (caramel, lacquer)
- •Light and dark soy sauce — to taste (saltiness, color)
- •Yellow rice wine (Shaoxing) — one bowl (aroma, deglazing)
- •Ginger, star anise, Chinese cinnamon — a few pieces (braising spices)
Hóngshāoròu (红烧肉) — caramelized braised pork
Cubes of pork belly long-braised in a syrup of caramelized sugar, soy sauce, and rice wine until lacquered, tender, and glossy.
Why this dish? The dish for large gatherings and reunions, brought out when the house is full of friends. For a man who says he loves to cook for his guests himself, hóngshāoròu is the embodiment of the Chinese ritual meal.
When friends fill the house, this is the dish I put in the center of the table. The secret is simple: let the sugar melt until it turns amber before laying in the meat — that caramel gives the red color and the shine. Then patience: the fire must be low, the lid on, and you wait. A good hóngshāoròu cannot be ordered, it must be earned; and when everyone reaches their chopsticks toward the same dish, I find we already understand each other better.
Ingredients (period version)
- Pork belly with skin — a nice piece (heart of the dish)
- Brown cane sugar — a handful (caramel, lacquer)
- Light and dark soy sauce — to taste (saltiness, color)
- Yellow rice wine (Shaoxing) — one bowl (aroma, deglazing)
- Ginger, star anise, Chinese cinnamon — a few pieces (braising spices)
Ingredients
- Pork belly with skin — 700 g, cut into 4 cm cubes (heart of the dish)
- Brown sugar or cane sugar — 2 tbsp (caramel)
- Shaoxing wine — 150 ml (aroma)
- Light soy sauce — 2 tbsp (saltiness)
- Dark soy sauce — 1 tbsp (color)
- Ginger — 4 slices (aromatic)
- Star anise — 2 (spice)
- Chinese cinnamon stick — 1 (spice)
- Hot water — to cover (braising liquid)
Method
- Blanch pork cubes in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain.
- In a heavy pot, melt sugar dry until amber caramel, then roll pork in it to coat.
- Deglaze with Shaoxing wine, add soy sauces, ginger, and spices.
- Cover with hot water, bring to a simmer, then braise covered on very low heat for 1 hour.
- Uncover and let reduce for 15–20 minutes, stirring: the sauce becomes syrupy and lacquers the meat. Serve glossy.
How it was made : An iconic Chinese dish, with regional variations. The dry caramel technique (chǎo tāng sè) was used to color meat before dark soy sauce became widespread; slow braising tenderized cheap, fatty cuts.
The contemporary twist : Plate three perfectly glossy cubes on a black slate, like lacquered pebbles — rustic opulence transformed into a precious object.
Ai Weiwei · Charactorium
