flipTorrone di Cremona (honey and almond nougat)
Torrone di Cremona (honey and almond nougat)
Why this dish? Torrone is the emblematic confection of Cremona, Ponchielli's homeland; legend has it born at the 1441 Sforza-Visconti wedding, shaped like the Torrazzo, the city's great bell tower. A durable sweet, it was kept and traveled in pockets and chests alike.
A white paste of honey and egg white, firm yet tender, studded with toasted almonds. The lasting sweetness of Cremona, which keeps long and accompanies the traveler as well as the feast.
They say this nougat was born for a Sforza wedding, shaped like our Torrazzo — so understand that in Cremona, torrone is not a treat, it is a monument. The honey must be beaten long in a bain-marie with the egg white, without rest, until it whitens and holds the ribbon — a work of patience, almost a fugue. Then the toasted almonds are thrown in, still hot, and the whole is poured between two sheets of wafer. It keeps for weeks: I would slip a piece into my frock coat for long carriage trips to Milan.
- •Honey — a good amount (nougat base)
- •Egg white — one or two (whitening and structure)
- •Almonds (and hazelnuts) — in abundance (garnish, crunch)
- •Sugar — a little (firmness)
- •Wafer paper (ostie) — two (edible support)
- •Lemon zest — a little (flavor)
Torrone di Cremona (honey and almond nougat)
A white paste of honey and egg white, firm yet tender, studded with toasted almonds. The lasting sweetness of Cremona, which keeps long and accompanies the traveler as well as the feast.
Why this dish? Torrone is the emblematic confection of Cremona, Ponchielli's homeland; legend has it born at the 1441 Sforza-Visconti wedding, shaped like the Torrazzo, the city's great bell tower. A durable sweet, it was kept and traveled in pockets and chests alike.
They say this nougat was born for a Sforza wedding, shaped like our Torrazzo — so understand that in Cremona, torrone is not a treat, it is a monument. The honey must be beaten long in a bain-marie with the egg white, without rest, until it whitens and holds the ribbon — a work of patience, almost a fugue. Then the toasted almonds are thrown in, still hot, and the whole is poured between two sheets of wafer. It keeps for weeks: I would slip a piece into my frock coat for long carriage trips to Milan.
Ingredients (period version)
- Honey — a good amount (nougat base)
- Egg white — one or two (whitening and structure)
- Almonds (and hazelnuts) — in abundance (garnish, crunch)
- Sugar — a little (firmness)
- Wafer paper (ostie) — two (edible support)
- Lemon zest — a little (flavor)
Ingredients
- Honey (acacia or wildflower) — 300 g (base)
- Sugar — 150 g (structure)
- Egg whites — 2 (airy structure)
- Blanched almonds (and hazelnuts) — 350 g, toasted (garnish)
- Wafer paper (azyme bread) — 2 large (support)
- Lemon zest + 1 vanilla bean (optional, post-1492 OK) — to taste (flavor)
Method
- Lightly toast the almonds and hazelnuts in the oven, keep warm.
- Melt the honey in a bain-marie and cook gently, stirring for 30-40 min until thickened.
- Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks, incorporate into the hot honey in a stream, whisking continuously in the bain-marie.
- Cook the sugar separately to a light caramel, add to the mixture; beat until it whitens and holds the ribbon.
- Fold in the zest (and vanilla), then the warm nuts, mix quickly.
- Pour between two sheets of wafer paper in a frame, press flat under a weight.
- Let harden for several hours, then cut into bars with a hot knife.
- Store in a dry place, wrapped: it keeps for several weeks.
How it was made : Cremonese torrone, made from honey, egg white and almonds, is a long-lasting sweet inherited from medieval and Arab-Mediterranean confectionery. In the 19th century, it was the proud specialty of Cremona, sold at markets and given as gifts. Its firmness made it an ideal snack for long journeys.
The contemporary twist : Thin bars half-dipped in a glaze and presented upright like organ pipes — a nod to the musician.
Sources : Tradition of torrone di Cremona · Legend of the Sforza-Visconti wedding (1441)
Amilcare Ponchielli · Charactorium
