flipKykeon of wandering—barley, watered wine, and grated goat cheese
Kykeon of wandering—barley, watered wine, and grated goat cheese
Why this dish? Anaximander traveled: he is said to have stayed in Sparta and participated in founding the colony of Apollonia Pontica. On roads and ships, the kykeon—a mixture of barley, cheese, and watered wine known since Homer—was the Greek traveler's liquid boost, both drink and meal.
A thick, nourishing drink: toasted barley flour stirred into wine diluted with water, with grated goat cheese and a touch of herbs. Tangy from the wine, salty-umami from the cheese, it is the "meal you drink" of Ionian sailors and walkers.
On the road to Sparta, or standing on the deck of a ship seeking the shores of the Pontus, one does not light a fire. So I stir my barley flour into watered wine, I grate a little cheese from our goats, I mix in a fragrant herb, and I drink my meal in one go. The body holds, the mind stays clear to observe the stars and correct my map. The man who measures the world must first know how to stand steady.
- •Toasted barley flour (alphita) — a good handful (nourishing base)
- •Wine — one part (liquid base)
- •Water — two to three parts (dilute the wine)
- •Hard goat cheese — to grate (umami and body)
- •Herbs (mint or pennyroyal) — a few leaves (aroma)
Kykeon of wandering—barley, watered wine, and grated goat cheese
A thick, nourishing drink: toasted barley flour stirred into wine diluted with water, with grated goat cheese and a touch of herbs. Tangy from the wine, salty-umami from the cheese, it is the "meal you drink" of Ionian sailors and walkers.
Why this dish? Anaximander traveled: he is said to have stayed in Sparta and participated in founding the colony of Apollonia Pontica. On roads and ships, the kykeon—a mixture of barley, cheese, and watered wine known since Homer—was the Greek traveler's liquid boost, both drink and meal.
On the road to Sparta, or standing on the deck of a ship seeking the shores of the Pontus, one does not light a fire. So I stir my barley flour into watered wine, I grate a little cheese from our goats, I mix in a fragrant herb, and I drink my meal in one go. The body holds, the mind stays clear to observe the stars and correct my map. The man who measures the world must first know how to stand steady.
Ingredients (period version)
- Toasted barley flour (alphita) — a good handful (nourishing base)
- Wine — one part (liquid base)
- Water — two to three parts (dilute the wine)
- Hard goat cheese — to grate (umami and body)
- Herbs (mint or pennyroyal) — a few leaves (aroma)
Ingredients
- Toasted barley flour (or blended barley flakes) — 3 tbsp (nourishing base)
- Light red wine — 100 ml (liquid base)
- Water — 250 ml (dilute the wine)
- Hard goat cheese (to grate) — 30 g (umami and body)
- Fresh mint — a few leaves (aroma)
- Honey (optional) — 1 tsp (sweeten)
Method
- Mix the wine and water in a large bowl to obtain well-diluted wine (one volume wine to two or three water).
- Gradually whisk in the toasted barley flour to avoid lumps.
- Grate the hard goat cheese on top and mix until thick and homogeneous.
- Add the chopped mint leaves, and honey if you wish to soften the wine's acidity.
- Let rest for 5 minutes for the barley to swell, stir one last time, and drink cool.
- For a non-alcoholic version (young audience), replace the wine with grape juice diluted with a splash of vinegar.
How it was made : Kykeon (κυκεών) is attested as early as the Iliad and Odyssey: Homer describes Circe and the beautiful Hecamede preparing it with barley flour, grated cheese, and Pramnian wine. A ritual drink at the Eleusinian Mysteries, it was also the ordinary restorative of travelers and workers. The family-friendly version replaces wine with tangy grape juice.
The contemporary twist : Serve it chilled as a "presocratic smoothie" in a clay cup, sprinkled with puffed barley—an ancient pre-workout before the era of protein shakes.
Sources : Homer, Iliad, book XI (Hecamede's kykeon) and Odyssey, book X (Circe) · Andrew Dalby, Siren Feasts, Routledge, 1996
Anaximander · Charactorium
