Arundhati Roy’s menu
Sweet served in the middle of the sadhya (Onam payasam)

Ada pradhaman — rice payasam with coconut milk and jaggery

FestiveDocumented🍯 🍄moyen50 min

A creamy milk dessert where thin rice flakes (ada) simmer in three extractions of coconut milk and melted jaggery, perfumed with cardamom and garnished with coconut and cashews fried in coconut oil. Deep caramel colour, silky texture.

Sweet served in the middle of the sadhya (Onam payasam)

A creamy milk dessert where thin rice flakes (ada) simmer in three extractions of coconut milk and melted jaggery, perfumed with cardamom and garnished with coconut and cashews fried in coconut oil. Deep caramel colour, silky texture.

Pradhaman, you pour it warm into the hollow of the leaf, and believe me, you eat it with your fingers — that's the whole art. The secret is in the coconut milk: three pressings, from thickest to thinnest, added in reverse order so it doesn't curdle. The jaggery must melt slowly, taste of caramel and earth. On Onam at home, the whole house smelled of cardamom; it's a smell that doesn't lie about the happiness we had.
Arundhati Roy
Ingredients
  • Ada (rice flakes)a handful (starch)
  • Coconut (for three milks)two nuts (liquid and richness)
  • Jaggery (palm sugar)a large piece (caramelised sugar)
  • Cardamoma few pods (aroma)
  • Dried ginger powdera pinch (warmth)
  • Cashews and coconut chipsa handful (fried garnish)
  • Gheea spoonful (frying the garnish)
How it was made : Ada pradhaman is the emblematic payasam of the Onam sadhya. The technique of three coconut milks (thick, medium, thin) — extracted successively from the same grated flesh and added from thinnest to thickest — is central to all Kerala cooking to prevent the milk from separating during cooking. Jaggery, an unrefined palm or cane sugar, gives its dark colour and mineral taste, long predating white sugar.
Sources : Ammini Ramachandran, Grains, Greens and Grated Coconuts · K. M. Mathew, Flavours of the Spice Coast (Onam payasam)

See also