Baldassare Castiglione’s menu
Torta d'erbe — chard, herb, and cheese tart
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*Servizio di credenza* — green tart presented from the sideboard

Torta d'erbe — chard, herb, and cheese tart

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*Servizio di credenza* — green tart presented from the sideboard

Torta d'erbe — chard, herb, and cheese tart

Why this dish? Between two state banquets, the court kitchen prepared green herb tarts — an ordinary, nourishing dish served cold from the sideboard. For Castiglione, a child of the Lombard countryside of Casatico before becoming a courtier, this was the familiar taste of kitchen gardens and days without pomp.

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*Servizio di credenza* — green tart presented from the sideboard

A tart filled with chopped chard, spinach, and borage, bound with eggs and fresh cheese, scented with mild herbs. The slight bitterness of the greens balances the saltiness of the cheese: a simple, green, and hearty dish.

Not everything is splendor at court, believe me. Here is the herb tart as we made it in the land of Casatico where I was born: one gathers chard, spinach, a little borage, chops them fine with fresh cheese and eggs, encloses all in the pastry, and bakes until golden. Cold, taken from the sideboard, it nourishes the sober man. The accomplished courtier knows how to enjoy this as well as the prince's venison.
Baldassare Castiglione
Ingredients
  • Chard and spinacha good armful (greens)
  • Borage (or other pot herbs)a handful (mild herb)
  • Fresh cheesea good piece (salty binder)
  • Eggsa few (binder)
  • Pastry (flour, water, lard)enough to line and cover (crust)
  • Pepper, a little saffronto taste (seasoning and color)
How it was made : Green herb tarts (*torte d'erbe verdes*) were a classic of Renaissance Italian cuisine, from peasant kitchens to noble sideboards. Borage, chard, and other garden herbs dominated; saffron was mainly used to give the prized golden color.
Sources : Maestro Martino, *Libro de arte coquinaria* (c. 1465) · Bartolomeo Scappi, *Opera* (1570), herb tarts

See also