Mostarda of Cremona with Fruits and Mustard
Whole or quartered fruits — pears, quinces, citron — candied in a honey syrup flavored with mustard, at once sweet, glossy, and so pungent they sting the nose. The preserve that accompanied *bolliti* and roasts.
Whole or quartered fruits — pears, quinces, citron — candied in a honey syrup flavored with mustard, at once sweet, glossy, and so pungent they sting the nose. The preserve that accompanied *bolliti* and roasts.
When autumn comes and the pears bend the branches, I let nothing go to waste: they are candied in honey over several days, a little each day, so the fruit keeps its shape. The trick is the *senape* — just a few drops of that mustard essence that stings the eye and makes you weep, but it wakes up boiled meat like nothing else. Keep your pots in the cellar: they will last you until Lent.
- •Firm fruits (pears, quinces, citron, apples) — a full basket (base)
- •Honey — to cover (preserving syrup)
- •Mustard essence / *senape* seeds — a few drops (piquant signature)
- •White wine — a glass (syrup)
Mostarda of Cremona with Fruits and Mustard
Whole or quartered fruits — pears, quinces, citron — candied in a honey syrup flavored with mustard, at once sweet, glossy, and so pungent they sting the nose. The preserve that accompanied *bolliti* and roasts.
Why this dish? Mostarda is the emblematic preserve of Cremona. In Gatti's time, autumn fruits were candied in honey and mustard essence to last through winter and enliven boiled meats. It is the very taste of his city, this marriage of sweetness and sharpness.
When autumn comes and the pears bend the branches, I let nothing go to waste: they are candied in honey over several days, a little each day, so the fruit keeps its shape. The trick is the *senape* — just a few drops of that mustard essence that stings the eye and makes you weep, but it wakes up boiled meat like nothing else. Keep your pots in the cellar: they will last you until Lent.
Ingredients (period version)
- Firm fruits (pears, quinces, citron, apples) — a full basket (base)
- Honey — to cover (preserving syrup)
- Mustard essence / *senape* seeds — a few drops (piquant signature)
- White wine — a glass (syrup)
Ingredients
- Firm pears and quinces — 1 kg (base)
- Sugar (or half honey) — 600 g (preserving syrup)
- Food-grade mustard essence — 10–15 drops (piquant signature)
- Water — 200 ml (syrup)
- Lemon juice — 1 tbsp (acidity and firmness)
Method
- Peel and cut firm fruits into large wedges (leave small fruits whole).
- Make a syrup with sugar, water, and lemon juice; add fruits and bring to a simmer for 5 min.
- Drain fruits and syrup separately; repeat the boiling-syrup / soaked-fruits process once a day for 3 days to candy without cooking into compote.
- On the last day, remove the syrup from heat and stir in the mustard essence drop by drop (work with the window open, the fumes sting).
- Pour fruits and syrup into sterilized jars, seal, and store in a cool place.
How it was made : The word *mostarda* comes from *mosto* (must) to which mustard (*senape*) was added. Since the Middle Ages, Po Valley cities candied fruits in honey and mustard to preserve them and accompany meats at grand tables. The sharply piquant version remains Cremona's specialty.
The contemporary twist : Serve a spoonful of mostarda on a shaving of Grana Padano and a drizzle of olive oil: a sweet-piquant-salty pairing in one appetizer bite.
Bernardino Gatti · Charactorium