flipSteamed Fish with Fermented Black Bean Sauce (豉汁蒸鱼, chǐ zhī zhēng yú)
Steamed Fish with Fermented Black Bean Sauce (豉汁蒸鱼, chǐ zhī zhēng yú)
Why this dish? Fish only occasionally entered an artisan's bowl — it was a festive dish. Bi Sheng lived near the Yangtze, around Zhenjiang and its Mengxi garden; a whole river fish steamed to perfection honored a great occasion, a New Year, a completed commission.
A whole freshwater fish steamed, topped with fermented black beans, ginger, and scallion, finished with a drizzle of hot oil. Tender flesh, deep savory juices: the centerpiece of a celebratory meal.
When a large plate of characters is finally printed clean, without a smudge, I allow myself a fish — it's a feast day at my table. I choose it live at the river market, I clean it, and I lay it whole on the plate as I would lay my type in the iron frame: flat, nothing sticking out. On top, crushed black beans, ginger in threads, and I pour a ladle of smoking oil that wakes everything with a sizzle. The steam does the rest, gentle and patient; don't overcook it, friend, its flesh must stay tender like fresh clay.
- •Whole freshwater fish (carp, perch) — one, gutted (centerpiece)
- •Fermented black beans (douchi) — a good pinch (salty umami)
- •Fresh ginger — one piece (aroma, deodorizer)
- •Scallion — a few stalks (freshness)
- •Rice wine — a dash (deodorizer)
- •Fermented soybean paste (jiàng) — a little (seasoning)
Steamed Fish with Fermented Black Bean Sauce (豉汁蒸鱼, chǐ zhī zhēng yú)
A whole freshwater fish steamed, topped with fermented black beans, ginger, and scallion, finished with a drizzle of hot oil. Tender flesh, deep savory juices: the centerpiece of a celebratory meal.
Why this dish? Fish only occasionally entered an artisan's bowl — it was a festive dish. Bi Sheng lived near the Yangtze, around Zhenjiang and its Mengxi garden; a whole river fish steamed to perfection honored a great occasion, a New Year, a completed commission.
When a large plate of characters is finally printed clean, without a smudge, I allow myself a fish — it's a feast day at my table. I choose it live at the river market, I clean it, and I lay it whole on the plate as I would lay my type in the iron frame: flat, nothing sticking out. On top, crushed black beans, ginger in threads, and I pour a ladle of smoking oil that wakes everything with a sizzle. The steam does the rest, gentle and patient; don't overcook it, friend, its flesh must stay tender like fresh clay.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole freshwater fish (carp, perch) — one, gutted (centerpiece)
- Fermented black beans (douchi) — a good pinch (salty umami)
- Fresh ginger — one piece (aroma, deodorizer)
- Scallion — a few stalks (freshness)
- Rice wine — a dash (deodorizer)
- Fermented soybean paste (jiàng) — a little (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Whole white fish (sea bass, bream, or thick fillets) — 1 (600–800 g) (centerpiece)
- Fermented black beans (douchi), rinsed — 2 tbsp, crushed (salty umami)
- Fresh ginger — 1 piece (4 cm), cut into fine matchsticks (aroma)
- Scallion (green and white parts) — 3 stalks, julienned (freshness)
- Shaoxing rice wine — 1 tbsp (deodorizer)
- Light soy sauce — 1 tbsp (seasoning)
- Neutral oil — 2 tbsp (final hot oil)
Method
- Score the fish with a few diagonal slashes on each side, drizzle with rice wine, and let rest for 10 minutes.
- Tuck half the ginger under and inside the fish, place it on a heatproof plate.
- Sprinkle with crushed black beans and remaining ginger, steam over high heat for 10–12 minutes (depending on thickness), until the flesh flakes easily.
- Discard any released liquid, drizzle with soy sauce, and cover with scallion julienne.
- Heat the oil in a small pan until smoking and pour it sizzling over the scallion. Serve immediately, at the center of the table.
How it was made : Steaming (蒸) is one of the oldest and noblest Chinese techniques, fuel-efficient and preserving freshness. The markets of Bianjing described in the *Dongjing Meng Hua Lu* teemed with live fish sold in water buckets; jiàng (fermented soybean paste) served as seasoning before liquid soy sauce became widespread.
The contemporary twist : Present the fish on a long dark slate, the scallion julienne still sizzling with oil, and call it "the successful print fish" — shared when a project is completed.
Sources : Meng Yuanlao, Dongjing Meng Hua Lu (东京梦华录), c. 1147 — fish markets of Bianjing · Lin Hong, Shanjia Qinggong (山家清供), Southern Song, c. 1241 — literati recipes for steamed dishes
Bi Sheng · Charactorium
