Ärtsoppa med fläsk — yellow pea soup with pork
A thick soup of split yellow peas, simmered long with a piece of bacon or salted pork, flavored with marjoram and thyme. The staple dish of the Swedish army and every modest table in the kingdom.
A thick soup of split yellow peas, simmered long with a piece of bacon or salted pork, flavored with marjoram and thyme. The staple dish of the Swedish army and every modest table in the kingdom.
Keep your court sauces and your French wines for the courtiers who fear the rain. I eat what my grenadiers eat: peas and pork, from the same mess tin, under the same tent. Let the peas soak all night, then throw them in the cauldron with the salted pork and a little marjoram, and wait. When the soup clings to the spoon, the man stands firm. That is the only cooking worthy of a soldier — and a king who cannot share it is but a king of paper.
- •Dried yellow peas — two large handfuls per man (nourishing base)
- •Salted pork or pork hock — a good piece (fat and umami flavor)
- •Onion — one (aromatic)
- •Dried marjoram and thyme — a pinch (flavoring)
- •Salt — to taste, depending on pork (seasoning)
Ärtsoppa med fläsk — yellow pea soup with pork
A thick soup of split yellow peas, simmered long with a piece of bacon or salted pork, flavored with marjoram and thyme. The staple dish of the Swedish army and every modest table in the kingdom.
Why this dish? On campaign, Charles XII shared his soldiers' rations. Yellow pea soup with pork was THE Swedish military ration: nourishing, cheap, transportable as dried peas. The king, who disdained fine wines and refined dishes, ate this soup with his men — which earned him their devotion.
Keep your court sauces and your French wines for the courtiers who fear the rain. I eat what my grenadiers eat: peas and pork, from the same mess tin, under the same tent. Let the peas soak all night, then throw them in the cauldron with the salted pork and a little marjoram, and wait. When the soup clings to the spoon, the man stands firm. That is the only cooking worthy of a soldier — and a king who cannot share it is but a king of paper.
Ingredients (period version)
- Dried yellow peas — two large handfuls per man (nourishing base)
- Salted pork or pork hock — a good piece (fat and umami flavor)
- Onion — one (aromatic)
- Dried marjoram and thyme — a pinch (flavoring)
- Salt — to taste, depending on pork (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Split yellow peas — 400 g (nourishing base)
- Smoked bacon or half-salted pork hock — 300 g (fat and umami flavor)
- Onion — 1 large, chopped (aromatic)
- Dried marjoram — 1 tsp (flavoring)
- Thyme — 1/2 tsp (flavoring)
- Water — 1.5 L (cooking liquid)
- Hot mustard — for serving (traditional condiment)
Method
- Soak the split peas overnight in cold water, then drain.
- In a large pot, cover the peas and pork with cold water, bring to a boil, and skim off any foam.
- Add the chopped onion, marjoram, and thyme. Simmer covered for 1.5 to 2 hours, until the peas fall apart.
- Remove the pork, cut into pieces, and return to the soup. Season with salt sparingly (the pork is already salty).
- Serve piping hot, each person adding a dab of mustard to their bowl.
How it was made : Ärtsoppa was served on Thursdays throughout Sweden, the eve of Friday's fast — a habit kept by the army and still alive today. Dried peas and salted pork traveled without spoiling, making this soup the ideal field ration.
The contemporary twist : Still served on Thursdays in Swedish barracks and schools, followed by thin pancakes with jam. A dab of Skåne mustard still enlivens the bowl.
Sources : Cajsa Warg, Hjelpreda i Hushållningen för Unga Fruentimber (1755) · Swedish military tradition of Thursday pea soup
Charles XII of Sweden · Charactorium
