flipJiǔniàng yuánzi — sweet fermented rice soup with glutinous rice balls
Jiǔniàng yuánzi — sweet fermented rice soup with glutinous rice balls
Why this dish? Rice balls are among the Shanghai foods cited in Eileen Chang's imagination; this sweet, slightly alcoholic soup is prepared for festivals (Winter Solstice, New Year, Lantern Festival)—moments of family reunion that haunt her stories of declining families.
Small glutinous rice pearls poached in a clear, sweet broth of fermented rice wine, sometimes accented with osmanthus. Sweet, warm, with a slight kick of alcohol and leaven—a festive comfort.
It is a sweetness of festive evenings, when the whole household gathers despite its grudges. The jiuniang—that fermented rice, sweet and slightly intoxicating—you dilute it in hot water, let tiny white heartless balls swim in it, as big as pearls, and add, if you have it, a pinch of osmanthus flowers. It is warm, it is sweet, it goes a little to the head; and you forget, for the time of a bowl, that great families always crumble from within.
- •Fermented rice wine (jiuniang / lao zao) — several spoonfuls (sweet, fermented base)
- •Glutinous rice flour — for the balls (small pearls)
- •Rock sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- •Osmanthus flowers (sweetened in syrup) — a pinch (floral fragrance)
- •Egg (optional) — 1 (drizzled into soup)
Jiǔniàng yuánzi — sweet fermented rice soup with glutinous rice balls
Small glutinous rice pearls poached in a clear, sweet broth of fermented rice wine, sometimes accented with osmanthus. Sweet, warm, with a slight kick of alcohol and leaven—a festive comfort.
Why this dish? Rice balls are among the Shanghai foods cited in Eileen Chang's imagination; this sweet, slightly alcoholic soup is prepared for festivals (Winter Solstice, New Year, Lantern Festival)—moments of family reunion that haunt her stories of declining families.
It is a sweetness of festive evenings, when the whole household gathers despite its grudges. The jiuniang—that fermented rice, sweet and slightly intoxicating—you dilute it in hot water, let tiny white heartless balls swim in it, as big as pearls, and add, if you have it, a pinch of osmanthus flowers. It is warm, it is sweet, it goes a little to the head; and you forget, for the time of a bowl, that great families always crumble from within.
Ingredients (period version)
- Fermented rice wine (jiuniang / lao zao) — several spoonfuls (sweet, fermented base)
- Glutinous rice flour — for the balls (small pearls)
- Rock sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- Osmanthus flowers (sweetened in syrup) — a pinch (floral fragrance)
- Egg (optional) — 1 (drizzled into soup)
Ingredients
- Fermented glutinous rice jiuniang (jarred, Asian grocery) — 150 g (base)
- Glutinous rice flour — 100 g + ~80 ml water (balls)
- Rock sugar or white sugar — 2 tbsp (sweetness)
- Osmanthus syrup (guihua) — 1 tsp (fragrance)
- Beaten egg (optional) — 1 (drizzled)
- Water — 600 ml (broth)
Method
- Mix glutinous rice flour with warm water to form a soft dough; roll into tiny balls (no filling).
- Bring water to a boil, poach the balls until they float (2–3 minutes).
- Add jiuniang and sugar, heat without boiling vigorously to preserve the fermented aroma.
- If desired, drizzle beaten egg into the simmering soup in a thin stream for silky threads.
- Remove from heat, scent with osmanthus, and serve warm in bowls.
How it was made : Jiuniang (glutinous rice inoculated with qjiuqu starter) is a very old domestic ferment from south of the Yangzi, halfway between food and mildly alcoholic drink. It was homemade and consumed mainly in winter and during festivals, reheated as a sweet soup.
The contemporary twist : Color some of the balls with beet juice for pink and white pearls, and serve in small glasses for a contemporary festive dessert.
Sources : Fuchsia Dunlop, Land of Fish and Rice (2016) · Mark Swislocki, Culinary Nostalgia (Stanford University Press, 2009)
Eileen Chang · Charactorium
