Elsdon Best’s menu
Kānga wai, corn from still waters
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Kai pirau (fermented food)

Kānga wai, corn from still waters

PreservingDocumented🫙 🍋moyen3 to 6 weeks (fermentation) + 20 min cooking
Kai pirau (fermented food)

Kānga wai, corn from still waters

Why this dish? Best, who carefully noted preservation techniques, described corn left to ferment in running water—a delicacy cherished by the elders and already seen as strange by the younger generation in his time.

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Kai pirau (fermented food)

Corn ears submerged for weeks in water until fully fermented, then crushed and cooked into a porridge. A powerful smell, a sharp sour taste: a pantry dish, sweetened at serving with sugar and cream.

Here is a dish that tests the traveler's nose, and I will not hide it from you! The ears are placed in a weighted basket at the bottom of a stream or pool and forgotten for weeks, until the grain is all soft and sour. I noted that the old Tūhoe relished it like a treat of their youth. Cooked as a porridge, then drizzled with cream and sprinkled with sugar, this kānga wai first surprises, then endears itself; therein lies all the wisdom of a people who waste nothing from the garden's gifts.
Elsdon Best
Ingredients
  • Corn ears (kānga)several (ingredient to ferment)
  • Running water (stream)enough to submerge (fermentation medium)
How it was made : Fermentation in running water was a real preservation method, also used for other foods. Before corn (introduced by Europeans), similar techniques were applied to other products; kānga wai is thus a post-contact dish, but deeply rooted in an ancient knowledge that Best documented.
Sources : Elsdon Best, Forest Lore of the Maori (1942)

See also