flipWild strawberry jam
Wild strawberry jam
Why this dish? Strawberries were among Fontenelle's favorite fruits, which he made one of the pleasures of his measured table. By preserving them in sugar, the taste of these fragile fruits that he loved to savor was extended until winter.
Small wild strawberries caught in a thick, shiny syrup: the old way to keep, out of season, the perfume of a fruit that Fontenelle cherished.
They say I loved strawberries; they speak truly, and I am not ashamed. But the fruit is fleeting, it lasts only a breath of summer — so in the offices, they had the art of holding it in sugar. We chose the smallest, the wild strawberries, and cooked them just so, over a gentle fire, until the syrup coated the spoon. Thus, in the heart of winter, I still had a bit of June under my tooth. That is a modest science, but a consoling one.
- •Wild strawberries — a large quantity (fruit)
- •Sugar — equal weight to fruit (preservation and binder)
- •Lemon or redcurrant juice — a dash (acidity and set)
Wild strawberry jam
Small wild strawberries caught in a thick, shiny syrup: the old way to keep, out of season, the perfume of a fruit that Fontenelle cherished.
Why this dish? Strawberries were among Fontenelle's favorite fruits, which he made one of the pleasures of his measured table. By preserving them in sugar, the taste of these fragile fruits that he loved to savor was extended until winter.
They say I loved strawberries; they speak truly, and I am not ashamed. But the fruit is fleeting, it lasts only a breath of summer — so in the offices, they had the art of holding it in sugar. We chose the smallest, the wild strawberries, and cooked them just so, over a gentle fire, until the syrup coated the spoon. Thus, in the heart of winter, I still had a bit of June under my tooth. That is a modest science, but a consoling one.
Ingredients (period version)
- Wild strawberries — a large quantity (fruit)
- Sugar — equal weight to fruit (preservation and binder)
- Lemon or redcurrant juice — a dash (acidity and set)
Ingredients
- Wild strawberries (or small garden strawberries) — 1 kg (fruit)
- Sugar — 800 g (preservation and binder)
- Lemon juice — 1/2 lemon (acidity and set)
Method
- Sort and gently wipe the strawberries without washing them thoroughly.
- Let them macerate with the sugar and lemon juice for 2 to 3 hours, until they release their juice.
- Bring slowly to a boil, then cook over medium heat, skimming.
- Check the set: drop a bit of syrup on a cold plate; it should gel slightly (about 105°C).
- Pour into sterilized jars, seal, and turn upside down until cool.
- Store away from light.
How it was made : The “office” was, in great houses, the domain of sugar: jams, candied fruits, syrups, and preserves. Preserving fruits in sugar was the great conservation technique before modern refrigeration, allowing strawberries, redcurrants, or apricots to be kept well beyond their short season. It is taught in 18th-century office treatises.
The contemporary twist : Serve a spoonful on whipped fromage blanc, and call it “Centenarian's Jam” — a nod to Fontenelle's almost legendary longevity.
Sources : Office and confectionery treatises, 18th century · Menon, La Science du maître d'hôtel confiseur, 1750
Fontenelle · Charactorium
