Pervoe (the "First," the Foundation Soup of the Meal)
Ukrainian Beet Borscht
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A deep-red foundation soup made from beets, cabbage, and root vegetables, scented with a hint of acidity and topped with a spoonful of sour cream: the beating heart of the Ukrainian table.
Why this dish? Born near Kyiv in Bila Tserkva, Pavlichenko grew up in the Ukraine of borscht, that red beet soup that every family simmered daily before the war devastated her homeland.
Before the shells fell on Ukraine, my mother would put a pot of borscht on the table, red as a poppy. We would throw in grated beet, cabbage, a bone to gnaw if we had one, and a drop of vinegar to wake it all up. You dip your black bread, add a spoonful of smetana, and you understand why a soldier fights to come home. Serve it very hot — a lukewarm borscht is no longer borscht.
Ingredients
- •Beet — two fine roots (base and color)
- •Cabbage — a quarter head (bulk vegetable)
- •Potato — a few tubers (thickener)
- •Carrot and onion — one each (aromatics)
- •Marrow bone or meat — as available (broth)
- •Vinegar or fermented beet juice — a splash (acidity)
- •Dill, garlic — to taste (flavor)
How it was made : In the Ukrainian countryside, borscht was made without a fixed recipe, according to the garden and the salt cellar. The bright red color was preserved by acidity (vinegar or beet kvass), and the soup improved when reheated the next day.