Thria, fig-leaf parcels for the wedding feast
Fig leaves filled with a stuffing of barley, cheese, egg, and herbs, perfumed with garum, tied, and then cooked in oil. A tender and fragrant festive dish.
Fig leaves filled with a stuffing of barley, cheese, egg, and herbs, perfumed with garum, tied, and then cooked in oil. A tender and fragrant festive dish.
For my wedding, the Immortals had prepared everything, but let me show you the thria, which I love above all. Pick the tender fig leaves, those at the top; enclose inside the barley porridge, fresh cheese, beaten egg, and three drops of that fish brine that guests adore. Tie each parcel with a linen thread, brown them in hot oil. At table, we would untie them with greedy fingers, between two cups of wine mixed with water — and for one evening, forget all the world's woes.
- •Tender fig leaves — about a dozen (fragrant wrapper)
- •Cooked barley porridge — one bowl (stuffing base)
- •Fresh goat cheese — a portion (binder, flavor)
- •Eggs — two (binding)
- •Garum (fish brine) — a few drops (umami signature)
- •Honey — a drizzle (balance)
- •Olive oil — for cooking (searing)
Thria, fig-leaf parcels for the wedding feast
Fig leaves filled with a stuffing of barley, cheese, egg, and herbs, perfumed with garum, tied, and then cooked in oil. A tender and fragrant festive dish.
Why this dish? Pandora is led as a bride to Epimetheus amid a banquet where gods and mortals mingle. For such a mythical wedding, refined festive dishes were served: these small fig-leaf parcels stuffed with porridge and cheese, attested under the name thria, were a pleasure of grand tables.
For my wedding, the Immortals had prepared everything, but let me show you the thria, which I love above all. Pick the tender fig leaves, those at the top; enclose inside the barley porridge, fresh cheese, beaten egg, and three drops of that fish brine that guests adore. Tie each parcel with a linen thread, brown them in hot oil. At table, we would untie them with greedy fingers, between two cups of wine mixed with water — and for one evening, forget all the world's woes.
Ingredients (period version)
- Tender fig leaves — about a dozen (fragrant wrapper)
- Cooked barley porridge — one bowl (stuffing base)
- Fresh goat cheese — a portion (binder, flavor)
- Eggs — two (binding)
- Garum (fish brine) — a few drops (umami signature)
- Honey — a drizzle (balance)
- Olive oil — for cooking (searing)
Ingredients
- Fig leaves (or vine leaves in brine, rinsed) — 12 (wrapper)
- Cooked barley semolina or bulgur — 200 g (stuffing base)
- Fresh goat cheese — 150 g (binder)
- Eggs — 2 (binding)
- Fish sauce (colatura / nuoc-mam) or mashed anchovies — 1 tsp (umami signature (garum substitute))
- Honey — 1 tsp (balance)
- Olive oil — 3 tbsp (cooking)
- Chopped mint and fennel — 1 tbsp (freshness)
Method
- Briefly blanch the fig leaves to soften them; pat dry.
- Mix the cooked barley, cheese, eggs, fish sauce, honey, and herbs into a pliable stuffing.
- Place a spoonful of stuffing on each leaf, fold into a small parcel, and tie with kitchen twine.
- Brown the parcels in hot oil for 2 minutes per side, then cover and cook on low heat for 8 minutes.
- Serve warm, with the string removed, a drizzle of honey, and a wedge of lemon (or verjuice to stay period).
How it was made : The thria are mentioned by ancient authors as a dish of stuffing wrapped in fig leaves. Garum, a fermented fish brine, was the king condiment of the Greco-Roman world, providing umami where we would use salt. At banquets, wine was always mixed with water — drinking it pure was considered barbaric.
The contemporary twist : Present as "untied bites" on a slate, cut the linen thread in front of the guest, with a honey-anchovy emulsion dotted around.
Pandora · Charactorium
